Author: monadermadmin

Splurge vs. Save: Skincare Edition

Using high-quality skincare products is the foundation of healthy, beautiful skin. However, it’s no secret that skincare can also be expensive. Board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Alexandra Bowles, is breaking down what categories of skincare products you should spend a little extra on, and which products you can swap for a more affordable option without compromising on great results.

Splurge vs. Save: Skincare Edition | Dr. Alexandra Bowles Dermatologist

Cleanser – SAVE

A good cleanser doesn’t need to break the bank. “Whether you’re spending $12 or $120, the primary job is the same—remove dirt, oil, and makeup without causing irritation or stripping your skin’s natural barrier,” explains Dr. Bowles. The key is finding a gentle formula that works for your skin type.

Dr. Bowles’ Cleanser Picks:

Growth Factor – SPLURGE

If you want to add a growth factor into your routine, this is not an area where you want to try to save. “Growth factors are complex proteins that require sophisticated formulation and clinical testing,” she explains. “The difference between a $30 and $150 growth factor serum is significant in terms of potency, stability, and results.” If you can’t splurge on a high-quality growth factor, it may be best to invest in other core parts of your routine, such as an antioxidant.

Growth factors help stimulate cellular renewal and collagen production, making them particularly valuable for anti-aging. Look for products from established medical-grade brands that invest in research and development. These serums may cost more upfront, but the concentrated formulations mean you’ll use less product and see better results over time.

Dr. Bowles’ Growth Factor Pick:

Antioxidant or Vitamin C – SPLURGE

Vitamin C is notoriously unstable and difficult to formulate effectively. “A cheap vitamin C serum might oxidize quickly and become ineffective, or worse, irritating to your skin,” notes Dr. Bowles. Quality vitamin C or antioxidant products use stabilized forms of vitamins and protective packaging to maintain potency.

Look for serums in dark glass bottles, and check the ingredient list for L-ascorbic acid or stable derivatives like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. While drugstore vitamin C products exist, investing in a well-formulated antioxidant serum will give you better protection against environmental damage and more visible results.

Dr. Bowles’ Antioxidant Picks:

Retinol – SAVE

Here’s where you can be strategic with your spending. “Over-the-counter retinol products have come a long way and can be very effective,” says Dr. Bowles. “In addition, prescription retinoids can often be covered by insurance and, as a result, will have a very low copay at the pharmacy.” 

When choosing a retinol, the key is understanding concentration and formulation. A good-quality retinol will have a concentration shown on the label, such as 0.25 or 0.5. If you’re interested in a prescription-strength tretinoin, it’s best to schedule an appointment with your dermatologist.

Dr. Bowles’ Retinol Picks:

Hyaluronic Acid – SPLURGE

While hyaluronic acid might seem like a simple ingredient, the molecular weight and formulation make all the difference. “High-quality hyaluronic acid serums use multiple molecular weights to penetrate different layers of the skin and multiple types of HA for better results,” explains Dr. Bowles. “Cheaper versions often use only one type of HA or high molecular weight HA that sits on the surface.”

Look for serums that have been clinically studied and proven to achieve the intended results.

Dr. Bowles’ Hyaluronic Acid Pick:

Moisturizer – SAVE

Good moisturizing doesn’t require luxury pricing. “The basic function of a moisturizer is to hydrate and protect your skin barrier,” notes Dr. Bowles. “Many affordable options do this just as effectively as expensive ones.” If you love your splurge moisturizer, there’s no reason to switch, but this is a great area to save if needed.

Focus on finding a moisturizer with high-quality ingredients: ceramides, niacinamide, and glycerin are beneficial ingredients that appear in both drugstore and high-end products.

Dr. Bowles’ Moisturizer Picks:

  • CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion – PM ($19.99)
  • Avène Tolerance Control Cream ($38.00)

Sunscreen – IT DEPENDS!

This category requires the most nuanced approach. “The best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually use every day,” emphasizes Dr. Bowles. “But there are some important distinctions to consider.”

For daily facial sunscreen, investing in a higher-quality product often pays off but is not necessarily required. Mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are the best choice for sun protection, but budget brands can sometimes leave a white cast. You may wish to splurge on a formulation that blends better. If you are comfortable with a lighter coverage makeup, you could also consider finding a tinted SPF that you can use as your foundation (getting two products in one for greater savings!) If you’re considering sunscreens that aren’t mineral-based, make sure it has broad-spectrum coverage (UVA & UVB) and an SPF of at least 30.

Dr. Bowles’ Sunscreen Picks:

  • Splurge Option: Colorescience Face Shield Flex ($58.00) or No Show ($48.00)
  • Mid-Range: EltaMD UV Clear, Non-Tinted ($44.00) or Tinted ($46.00)
  • Save Option: CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 ($19.99)

The Bottom Line

Building an effective skincare routine doesn’t mean you need to splurge on every product. By being strategic about where you invest your money, you can create a regimen that delivers results without breaking the budget. Remember, consistency matters more than cost—the best skincare routine is one you’ll actually stick with.

Not sure where to start with your skincare routine? Schedule a consultation with Mona Dermatology to discuss which products and treatments are right for your specific skin concerns.

It’s Not All About the Face: Body Anti-Aging

 We often focus on our face when it comes to anti-aging, but we don’t want to forget about areas such as our neck, chest, hands, and body which are often neglected. This summer, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mona Foad will share how to prevent and reverse aging during a three-part series, “It’s Not All About the Face.” In case you missed it, be sure to check out Part One from the June issue about neck and chest and Part Two from the July issue about the hands.

 Body Contouring For Anti-Aging

There is no doubt that as we age, our body also changes. Our metabolism slows down, and we may notice a decrease in the ability to make muscle. In turn, we may also notice an increase in fat deposition. Women may see this with more weight around their abdomen, back, and chest and may notice fat pockets that were just not there before. This affects how clothes fit and ultimately affects our confidence. Body contouring is therefore not just for younger people who want a more toned physique, but a way for us to reclaim our shape over time. 

Treating the Fat 

CoolSculpting is a great no-downtime way to target unwanted fat. CoolSculpting safely delivers precisely controlled cooling to gently and effectively target fat cells underneath the skin. The treated fat cells are crystallized (frozen), and then die through a natural process, leaving surrounding tissues unaffected. Over time, your body naturally processes the fat and eliminates these dead cells, leaving the treated areas more sculpted. 

Kybella is another way to target small pockets of fat such as bra fat or a double chin. The active ingredient in Kybella is deoxycholic acid. This is a naturally occurring molecule your gallbladder uses to help break down dietary fat. When injected into an area of fat, it safely destroys a percentage of fat cells.

Treating the Muscle 

Maintaining and building muscle as we age is important because it helps with stability, balance, and core strength, as well as maintaining our shape. EmSculpt Neo is an advanced body sculpting treatment that combines radio frequency for fat loss with High-Intensity Focused Electromagnetic (HIFEM) energy to build muscle. HIFEM energy contracts and engages up to 90% of muscle fibers in the treated area, which is much higher than we can achieve during a voluntary workout. Clinical studies showed an average of 25% growth in muscle volume and a 30% reduction in fat, a 19% improvement in abdominal separation (diastasis recti), and a 14% reduction in visceral fat.

It's Not All About the Face: Body Anti-Aging | As Seen in Cincinnati Magazine

Laxity & Loose Skin for Body Anti-Aging

We have already talked about how aging causes loss of collagen and elastin in our skin, so it should come as no surprise that this happens to the skin on our body as well. You may notice it with crepe skin around your knees, arms, or thighs. If you are ready to take the jump into body treatments, make sure you are seeing a professional who is experienced in treating body skin and understands the differences in treating the skin in these areas. 

 Skincare

First and foremost, make sure to moisturize daily because our skin gets dry as we get older and we lose our ability to make hyaluronic acid. I always suggest using a cream rather than a lotion whenever possible. You may want to consider adding a moisturizer with glycolic or lactic acids to help chemically exfoliate dull and dry skin. Also consider adding a retinol to your body routine. If you want to take it a step further, SkinMedica’s Firm and Tone lotion is my favorite product for the body because it has antioxidants and helps support collagen and elastin growth to decrease the appearance of crepey skin. 

Tightening

Skin care may not be enough, so consider tightening treatments to help build collagen and elastin on the arms, thighs, and abdomen.

Ultrasound tightening treatments, such as Sofwave or Ulthera, are safe no-downtime ways to tighten loose skin. Sofwave has also been FDA-approved to treat cellulite, which can develop as we age.

Radiofrequency microneedling is another popular minimally invasive way to safely treat loose or crepey skin. 

If you are able to have a bit more downtime, Ellacor is a micro-coring treatment that can take out a percentage of skin to tighten and build collagen. Ellacor can create dramatic results without the downtime of surgery. 

Bio-Stimulators

Bio-stimulators help your body build its own collagen and elastin. Sculptra, or PLLA, is an injection that works over time to develop collagen and elastin in the area that it has been injected. Combining Sculptra with a tightening treatment is a great way to reverse the signs of aging on the body.

Discoloration on the Body

For unwanted brown or red pigment on the body, lasers and lights are great options. Some of our most popular options are Intense Pulse Light (IPL) or Broadband Light (BBL), which have little to no downtime and reduce overall discoloration after a series of three treatments. A deeper resurfacing laser, such as the Fraxel Dual, has a bit more downtime (five to seven days) but offers more dramatic results and a boost in collagen to treat fine lines, wrinkles, and texture. Make sure your provider is well-trained in using lasers off the face. The skin on the body does not heal as fast as the face, and certain lasers are not appropriate for use on the body. 

Not sure where to start? Schedule a consultation with one of the providers at Mona Dermatology! During your visit, you’ll discuss your top concerns and what products and treatments are right for you.

The Best Sunscreens for Dry Skin | As Featured in Allure

If you have dry skin, finding a great sunscreen can be a struggle. Dr. Mona Foad recently chatted with Allure to share her insights on the best sunscreens for dry skin types.

Are there key ingredients in sunscreens that people with dry skin should look for?

Dry skin is typically caused by the environment, aging, genetics, medication, and dehydration. When choosing a sunscreen for dry or sensitive skin, it’s important to find one that protects and hydrates the skin barrier. Consider ingredients such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid in your sunscreen. These ingredients draw moisture into the skin, helping to increase its water content and maintain hydration levels. Additionally, Shea butter and coconut oil are excellent for locking in moisture. They contain fatty acids, creating a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Occlusives like petrolatum or dimethicone also reinforce this barrier by forming a protective layer on the skin’s surface, which helps to retain moisture.

Dry skin can also be more sensitive, so I would look for mineral-based sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as opposed to chemical sunscreens. Furthermore, antioxidants like vitamin C or green tea offer extra protection against environmental stressors. At the same time, soothing ingredients, such as aloe vera or chamomile, can help calm any redness or irritation. This soothing is due to anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm redness and irritation, making them ideal for sensitive skin.

The Best Sunscreens for Dry Skin | AS Featured in AllureAre there any common sunscreen ingredients that people with dry skin should avoid?

If you have dry skin, it’s essential to select sunscreens that not only protect against UV damage but also provide hydration to prevent further moisture loss. Avoid ingredients like denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol. While they are often included in lightweight formulas, they can strip the skin of its natural oils. This is because they evaporate quickly, leading to increased dryness and irritation. Fragrances may irritate and also dehydrate the skin, due to their chemical composition. They often include various synthetic and natural compounds that may cause allergic reactions or inflammation. 

Additionally, while chemical sunscreen ingredients such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate can work for many people, they may cause irritation and allergic reactions in people with sensitive or dry skin. Opt for mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide instead. Perform a patch test to see how well your skin can tolerate these ingredients if you have not applied them before. 

Which type of sunscreen is generally better for dry skin?

For dry or sensitive skin, I recommend using a cream or lotion-based sunscreen. This is due to its hydrating properties and lower risk for irritation rather than gels or sprays. These formulas typically incorporate emollients and humectants, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which attract and retain moisture effectively. In addition, I would look for sunscreens with mineral filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Mineral sunscreens work by sitting on the skin’s surface to reflect UV rays, making them gentler on sensitive skin. In contrast, gel, spray, and chemical sunscreens often contain drying agents like alcohol. These ingredients can strip the skin of its natural oils, exacerbating dryness by increasing transepidermal water loss. 

What role does SPF play in maintaining healthy, hydrated skin, especially for those with dryness?

SPF, or sun protection factor, measures how much we can protect our skin against UVB rays. We call these our “Burning Rays.” Protecting against UVA rays, which go deeper into the skin and can cause more aging and skin cancer, is also important. We call them our “Aging Rays.” UV rays accelerate aging through pigment formation and collagen breakdown. Daily sunscreen use can help prevent these premature aging effects, including dryness, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation.

For those with dry skin, use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and make sure it has either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to help protect against UVA Rays. Using a cream or lotion-based formulation with hyaluronic acid will aid in moisture retention by preventing transepidermal water loss. This will help keep your skin resilient and well-hydrated. This dual approach not only safeguards against UV damage but also supports the skin’s health.

How often should someone with dry skin reapply sunscreen, and are there special considerations for reapplication?

It is important to reapply sunscreen about every two hours since the protective effects of sunscreen diminish with time. Water-resistant sunscreens are only effective for about 80 minutes. So, if you get in the water or get very sweaty, apply your sunscreen more frequently. Using a moisturizing sunscreen can provide additional hydration. However, make sure to use a broad-spectrum one with an SPF of at least 30. This will ensure you are protected against both UVA and UVB rays. Also be sure to apply the sunscreen liberally. You’ll also want to replace your sunscreen supply at least once a year. This is because sunscreens expire and are not as effective after this expiration date.

Can using a sunscreen with added hydration replace a traditional moisturizer?

While a sunscreen with added hydration can enhance moisture levels, it generally shouldn’t fully replace a traditional moisturizer, especially for those with dry skin. Layering a moisturizer underneath your sunscreen creates a protective barrier and helps prevent moisture loss.

Top Sunscreen Picks for Dry Skin:

Top Choice: EltaMD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40: This tinted moisturizer is perfect for those seeking a more even complexion. It’s formulated with hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin and niacinamide to soothe and reduce redness. The added squalane restores the skin’s natural moisture and the vitamin C and E are antioxidants which help to combat skin-aging free radicalsI appreciate its lightweight feel and the fact that it doesn’t leave a white cast.

CeraVe Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30: Enriched with three essential ceramides and niacinamide, this mineral sunscreen helps restore and maintain the skin’s natural barrier. Its hydrating formula locks in moisture, making it ideal for dry skin. Plus, it’s fragrance-free and non-irritating, perfect for sensitive skin types. It has also been awarded the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance and the Skin Cancer Foundation Daily Use Seal of Approval.

Colorescience Tint du Soleil™ Whipped Mineral Foundation SPF 30: This is an all-in-one foundation, anti-aging, and sun protection product.  Ceramides and milk lipids replenish the skin and provide hydration while collagen-building peptides and a multivitamin complex work to improve skin health with every application. Mineral-based Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide deliver SPF 30 defense to protect from sun and environmental exposure that cause skin aging.

The Dangers of DIY Skincare & Bath Salts | As Seen in Daily Mail

Meghan Markle launched a series with Netflix titled “With Love, Meghan” in which she brings viewers into her life for cooking, crafts, hosting, and beyond. In her first episode, she prepares her guest room for an out-of-town visitor by making homemade bath salts. Dr. Alexandra Bowles weighed in on the potential dangers of DIY skincare and DIY bath salts with the Daily Mail. Today, she is expanding upon her insights about this topic.

In the episode, Meghan made homemade bath salts using Epsom salt, arnica oil, lavender, and pink Himalayan sea salt, and placed the mixture inside a cute mason jar. When prepping for an out-of-town guest, Meghan’s suggestion to create ways for your guest to pamper themselves is a great idea. However, everyone is different, and what irritates one person’s skin may not irritate another’s. A DIY skincare product, such as DIY bath salts, poses a stronger risk of irritation as compared to over-the-counter products, which typically undergo testing before being available for sale.

Dangers of DIY Bath Salts Daily Mail DIY skincareThe Dangers of Mixing Ingredients

“While I do not think this is innately dangerous, I do think that mixing so many different scents and salts can lead to irritation and sensitivities, especially for those with allergies or children with sensitive skin,” shares Dr. Bowles. The challenge with mixing ingredients is that the likelihood of an irritation increases. For example, the risk of being allergic to lavender is fairly low, with roughly only 2-4% of the population reporting a reaction. Arnica oil has a similarly low rate of irritation, with studies reporting between 1-7% of participants experiencing a reaction. However, by combining both ingredients, the percentage of the population that could potentially be allergic to your DIY mixture increases heavily as compared to each of the ingredients when used alone.

What to Do Instead

If you want to create a similar pampering experience for your overnight guests, opt for a store-bought bath salt. Or if you enjoy DIY projects and wish to make your own, consider encouraging your guest to spot test it first. Dr. Bowles explains, “I am happy to support my patients with DIY skincare as long as it is safe and well tolerated! I would just recommend doing a test spot on your skin before taking a full body bath in it!”

Angular Cheilitis Mouth Sores Explained | As Featured in Woman’s World

Have you experienced a sore in the corner of your mouth? It may be something known as angular cheilitis. Board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Mona Foad, expands upon her insights on this topic from her recent feature in Woman’s World.

angular cheilitis Mouth Sores Explained

What is angular cheilitis and what are the main causes?

Angular cheilitis is a condition that causes cracks or sores at the corners of the mouth, typically resulting in discomfort and irritation. The primary causes of angular cheilitis include fungal infections (especially Candida, a type of yeast) and bacterial infections, such as Streptococcus. These pathogens thrive in the moist environment around the mouth. Additionally, nutritional deficiencies—particularly in iron, zinc, and B vitamins like B2 (riboflavin) and B3 (niacin)—can contribute to the condition, as these nutrients are important for maintaining healthy skin. Moisture buildup, such as drooling during sleep, also plays a role in creating a favorable environment for these infections. While stress doesn’t directly cause angular cheilitis, it may exacerbate behaviors like lip licking or biting, which can worsen the condition. Seasonal changes, especially in colder months, can increase susceptibility due to drier skin, making it more prone to cracking.

Are there any features or preconditions that may make us more susceptible to angular cheilitis?

Certain factors may make individuals more prone to angular cheilitis. For example, those with deeper skin folds around the mouth—whether due to facial structure or age—are more likely to develop this condition. This is because the folds can trap moisture and promote infection. Individuals with a history of eczema or other conditions that compromise the skin barrier are also at higher risk. This is because their skin is already more vulnerable to irritation and infection. Those who wear dentures or experience excessive drooling during sleep may also be at increased risk.

In most cases, angular cheilitis is benign and can be treated with simple interventions like moisturizing creams. However, if the condition becomes recurrent or persistent, it may signal an underlying health issue, such as diabetes or immune system deficiencies. Consulting a healthcare provider is recommended if the condition doesn’t resolve with basic care.

Are perimenopausal or menopausal women more prone to angular cheilitis?

Perimenopausal and menopausal women may be more susceptible to angular cheilitis due to hormonal changes that lead to drier skin. As estrogen levels decline during menopause, the skin becomes thinner and less able to retain moisture. As a result, it is more prone to cracks and irritation. This is especially true in areas such as around the mouth. To manage this risk, it’s important to use hydrating skincare products. You should also ensure adequate intake of vitamins that support skin health including zinc, biotin, and B vitamins. Hormone replacement therapy (HRT) or other treatments designed to address menopause-related skin changes may also help. However, it’s always a good idea to consult with a healthcare provider for personalized recommendations.

How can you treat angular cheilitis?

Treating angular cheilitis involves addressing both the symptoms and underlying causes. Keeping the affected area moisturized is essential, and thick moisturizers, such as petroleum jelly or lanolin, work well to lock in moisture, particularly during sleep when saliva can pool in the corners of the mouth. If the condition is caused by a fungal or bacterial infection, topical antifungal or antibiotic creams may be necessary. You may need to get a prescription from your dermatologist or primary care physician.  If nutritional deficiencies are contributing, increasing intake of key nutrients—like zinc, iron, and B vitamins—can help support skin healing and prevent future flare-ups. To minimize moisture buildup, consider adjusting your sleeping position or using a protective balm before bed. If the condition persists or recurs frequently, consulting a dermatologist is recommended to rule out other potential causes and to receive more targeted treatment.

Best Eyebrow Growth Serum | Featured in Allure

Dr. Alexandra Bowles expands upon her insights from her recent Allure feature, “The Best Eyebrow Growth Serums for Fuller, Fluffier Brows.” She shares everything we need to know to choose the right eyebrow growth serum for fuller-looking brows.

Does eyebrow growth serum actually work?

Brow serums can indeed improve the appearance and fullness of eyebrows, but their effectiveness depends on several factors, including the serum’s active ingredients, genetics, age, and the cause of brow thinning. Serums that contain prostaglandin analogs are often highly effective, as they stimulate hair growth by prolonging the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle. Other ingredients like peptides help strengthen the hair shaft, while biotin and vitamins promote keratin production, fostering healthier growth. However, factors such as genetics, age, hormonal imbalances, or over-plucking can influence the results. If you have significant brow thinning, it may be worth consulting a dermatologist for advanced treatments like platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy.

Best Eyebrow Growth Serums AllureHow long does it typically take to see noticeable results from an eyebrow growth serum?

It typically takes between 4 to 12 weeks to notice visible results from a brow serum. The exact timeline depends on factors such as the specific product used, your individual hair growth cycle, and your consistency with application. Many people start seeing subtle improvements in thickness around 6 weeks, with more significant changes often occurring around 3 months. Brow serums stimulate hair follicles by extending the anagen phase, so new growth takes time to become visible. It’s important to be consistent with use and to have realistic expectations, as results can vary. If significant improvement isn’t seen after a few months, consulting a dermatologist might be a good next step.

Are the effects of brow serums permanent, or do they require continuous use to maintain fuller brows?

The effects of brow serums are not permanent and require continued use to maintain fuller brows. Once you stop using the serum, the hair will typically return to its natural growth cycle, and the benefits may gradually diminish. Because brow serums work by stimulating hair follicles to stay in the active growth phase, discontinuing use can result in slower hair growth or thinning. Consistent application is key to maintaining results. If you’re looking for more permanent solutions, prescription treatments or other dermatological procedures may be worth considering.

Can brow serums help regrow hair in areas with significant hair loss, such as scars or overplucked spots?

Brow serums can help improve the appearance of thinning brows and may promote regrowth in areas with mild to moderate hair loss. However, their effectiveness is limited in areas with significant hair loss, such as scars or heavily overplucked spots. This is because scarring can damage the hair follicles, preventing regrowth. While brow serums can stimulate healthy follicles, scar tissue often lacks the necessary structure for hair regeneration. For more severe hair loss, treatments like microneedling, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy, or hair transplants may be more effective. A dermatologist can assess your condition and recommend the best course of action.

Do lifestyle habits, like diet or stress levels, impact the effectiveness of brow growth? 

Yes, lifestyle habits like diet and stress levels can significantly impact brow growth. A well-balanced diet rich in biotin, Vitamin E, Vitamin D, zinc, iron, and protein supports healthy hair follicles and encourages better hair growth. Nutrient deficiencies can hinder the growth process, leading to weaker or slower-growing brows. Conversely, chronic stress can increase cortisol levels, disrupting the hair growth cycle and causing hair shedding, including in the brows. Managing stress through relaxation techniques, getting adequate sleep, and maintaining regular exercise can help optimize brow growth and improve the effectiveness of brow serums.

Dr. Bowles’ Top Picks for Eyebrow Growth Serums:

    1. neuBROW® Brow Enhancing Serum – Available on Nordstrom, this serum helps to enhance brow fullness and texture. It combines peptides, biotin, and keratin to nourish and stimulate hair growth. Typically, users see results within 30 days of consistent use, and its lightweight, fast-absorbing formula ensures ease of use.
    2. Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Genius® Conditioning Serum – Also available at Nordstrom, this vegan, cruelty-free serum contains six active ingredients, including peptides and botanical oils. It promotes fuller, softer brows by supporting follicle health and encouraging both thickness and manageability. Its non-greasy, lightweight formula makes it perfect for use under makeup.
    3. GrandeBROW 2-in-1 Tinted Brow Gel + Brow Enhancing Serum – This versatile option from Nordstrom combines instant brow volumizing with long-term growth benefits. The tinted gel offers immediate definition, while the serum works to nourish and thicken brows over time. It’s ideal for those seeking both short-term and lasting results.

Toasted Skin Syndrome | As Featured in PopSugar & Fox News

The phenomenon of ‘Toasted Skin Syndrome’ has recently been trending online. Board-certified dermatologist, Dr. Alexandra Bowles, is here to break down the science behind it. Her insights on this topic were recently featured by PopSugar and Fox News: Today, we’re rounding up everything you need to know to prevent and treat toasted skin syndrome.

Toasted Skin Syndrome | As Featured in Fox News Channel and PopSugar

What is toasted skin syndrome? How is it caused?

Toasted skin syndrome, or erythema ab igne, is a skin condition that develops when the skin is exposed to heat for extended periods. Common heat sources include heating pads, hot water bottles, or laptops placed directly on the skin. This exposure results in a mottled, reddish-brown discoloration that can worsen and even become permanent over time if not addressed.

Why does it happen?

This condition occurs when the skin is repeatedly exposed to heat that is high enough to dilate blood vessels but not intense enough to cause burns. While it might seem harmless at first, repeated exposure can lead to permanent damage to the skin’s deeper layers. This can result in visible discoloration. In rare cases, an increased risk of skin cancer can occur due to cellular changes caused by heat.

How can someone prevent it from happening?

To avoid toasted skin syndrome, it’s important to limit prolonged, direct contact between your skin and heat sources. For example, always place a barrier, such as a cloth, between your skin and a heating pad. Avoid placing laptops directly on your lap for extended periods. These simple precautions can help minimize the risk of long-term damage.

How can we treat toasted skin syndrome if it occurs?

If you notice discoloration or textural changes in your skin, stop exposing the area to heat immediately. In mild cases, the discoloration may fade on its own if the heat source is removed. For more persistent or severe cases, a dermatologist may recommend treatments such as topical retinoids to help improve skin texture and pigmentation. Catching and treating potential issues early can help prevent long-term skin damage.

What is Cleansing Oil?

Cleansing oil has become a trending skincare product in recent years. But is it even a good choice for your skin? Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her thoughts on cleansing oil and tips on how to get the best results.

Cleansing Oils 101

Cleansing oil is a skincare product that removes makeup, dirt, and impurities from the skin. What is unique about cleansing oil is that it also is hydrating and nourishing. Cleansing oils are typically formulated with a combination of natural oils such as jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, etc. These are emulsifiers that work to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin. 

When using a cleansing oil, make sure to first choose the right oil for your skin type. Different oils have unique properties that may be better suited to certain skin types. For example, you may prefer lighter oils like grapeseed or jojoba oil if you have oily or acne-prone skin. If you have dry skin, you may benefit from richer oils like avocado or almond oil. 

I typically recommend applying a small amount to your skin and gently massaging the oil in circular motions to emulsify the oil. This will turn it into a milky consistency that helps lift away dirt and makeup more effectively. Avoid rubbing or pulling at your skin too harshly, especially around the delicate eye area. Once the oil has emulsified, rinse it off thoroughly with lukewarm water. Follow up with your regular skincare routine, including moisturizer to lock in hydration and keep your skin soft and supple.

Cleansing Oil 101 with Dr. Alexandra Bowles

Where did cleansing oils come from? Why are they suddenly so popular?

The origins of cleansing oil can be traced back to traditional Japanese skincare practices. The concept of using oil to cleanse the skin dates back centuries in Japan, where geishas and kabuki actors used a mixture of oils, such as camellia oil, to remove heavy makeup and maintain clear, radiant skin.

Today, the popularity of cleansing oils has become heavily influenced by K-beauty (Korean Beauty) trends. South Korean skincare routines often emphasize thorough cleansing as the first step towards achieving healthy, glowing skin. The double cleansing method, which typically involves using a cleansing oil followed by a water-based cleanser, has become a cornerstone of K-beauty skincare routines. Korean skincare brands have developed a wide range of cleansing oils tailored to different skin types and concerns. Many incorporate ingredients like green tea extract, rice bran oil, and botanical extracts to provide additional skincare benefits beyond just makeup removal.

K-beauty, short for Korean beauty, refers to the skincare and cosmetic products, techniques, and routines that originate from South Korea. It has gained immense popularity globally for its innovative approach to skincare and its focus on achieving healthy, radiant skin through a multi-step regimen. These regimens often include exfoliating, toning, moisturizing, and applying targeted treatments like serums and essences. K-Beauty emphasizes hydration and nourishment while prioritizing gentle formulations with natural ingredients. Incorporating cutting-edge skincare technologies and customizing skincare routines and products for maximum benefit are also popular.

How do cleansing oils compare to normal face washes?

Cleansing oil differs from regular cleansers, face washes, and micellar water primarily in its formulation and mode of action. Cleansing oil is typically formulated with a blend of natural oils (such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, or olive oil) along with an emulsifier that works to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin. In contrast, regular cleansers and face washes often contain water-based formulas with surfactants that help to remove dirt and impurities from the skin.

Cleansing oil works on the principle of “like dissolves like” in that the oil in the cleansing oil binds to the oils and waxes in makeup and sebum on the skin, effectively breaking them down and lifting them away. When emulsified with water, the oil forms a milky texture that can be easily rinsed off, leaving the skin clean and hydrated. Cleansing oil is particularly effective at removing heavy or waterproof makeup. This is because it can break down and dissolve the oils and pigments in makeup products. Micellar water, on the other hand, uses micelles (tiny oil molecules suspended in water) to attract and remove dirt, makeup, and impurities from the skin without rinsing. While micellar water can effectively remove light makeup and cleanse the skin, it may not be as effective for heavy or waterproof makeup as cleansing oil.

Cleansing oil often provides additional hydration to the skin due to its oil-based formulation. It can help to replenish the skin’s natural oils and prevent it from feeling dry or tight after cleansing. Micellar water is also gentle and hydrating but may not provide as much moisture as cleansing oil, especially for dry or dehydrated skin.

Avene Xeracalm AD Lipid Replenishing Cleansing Oil
Avene Xeracalm AD Lipid Replenishing Cleansing Oil

What to Look for in Cleansing Oil:

When choosing a cleansing oil, it’s essential to consider both the ingredients and the texture to ensure that it suits your skin type and preferences. I recommend looking for cleansing oils formulated with natural oils like jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, or sunflower seed oil. These oils can effectively dissolve makeup and impurities while providing nourishment to the skin. Ingredients like vitamin E, green tea extract, or rosehip oil can provide antioxidant benefits, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging. Cleansing oils enriched with botanical extracts such as chamomile, lavender, or calendula can soothe and calm the skin, making them suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

Look for cleansing oils that contain emulsifiers like polysorbate or sorbitan oleate. These ingredients help the oil to emulsify with water, allowing it to rinse off cleanly without leaving a greasy residue.

Consider Your Skin Type:

If you have sensitive skin or are prone to irritation, consider opting for fragrance-free cleansing oils to minimize the risk of allergic reactions. Some cleansing oils have a lightweight texture that feels thin and non-greasy on the skin. These are suitable for all skin types, including oily or combination skin, and are easily emulsified with water for rinsing. A product I like to recommend to my patients is Avene’s Xeracalm Cleansing Oil which has a nourishing, biodegradable formula that seals in moisture and helps balance the skin’s microbiome while restoring the skin barrier. It’s also suitable for all ages, including newborns, and can be used for cleansing the face, body, and scalp. 

On the other hand, if you have dry or dehydrated skin, you may prefer a cleansing oil with a richer texture that feels more moisturizing on the skin. These oils provide extra hydration and can leave the skin feeling soft and supple after cleansing. Make sure to also look for cleansing oils labeled as non-comedogenic, meaning they are less likely to clog pores or cause breakouts. These oils are suitable for acne-prone or sensitive skin types.

Tips for Adding Cleansing Oil to Your Routine:

Cleansing oil can be used as either the first or second step in your cleansing routine, depending on your preference and skincare needs.

If you are using a cleansing oil as your first step:

  • Start with dry hands and a dry face and apply a small amount of cleansing oil into your palm (typically 1-2 pumps).
  • Gently massage it onto your skin using circular motions for about a minute or two.
  • Wet your hands slightly and continue massaging the oil onto your skin to emulsify the oil. This will turn it into a milky texture that will help to lift away dirt and impurities.
  • Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water until all traces of oil, makeup, and impurities are removed from your skin.
  • Follow up with a water-based cleanser if desired as part of a double cleansing routine. 

If you are using a cleansing oil as your second step:

  • Start with a dry face and use a water-based cleanser to cleanse your skin first. A gel cleanser or foaming cleanser works well for this.
  • Massage the cleanser onto your skin using gentle circular motions, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

Double cleansing with a cleansing oil as the second step helps to ensure that all traces of makeup, sunscreen, and impurities are effectively removed from the skin without stripping away too much natural moisture.

Our provider Jessica, PA-C talks more about how to double cleanse using cleansing oil in her Skincare Hacks blog post.

Who is a candidate for cleansing oils?

Cleansing oil can benefit a wide range of skin types and concerns, making it a versatile option in skincare routines. It can be particularly beneficial for those with dry skin. This is because it helps to nourish and hydrate the skin while effectively removing impurities. The oils in the cleansing oil can replenish the skin’s natural oils, leaving it feeling soft, supple, and moisturized. Many cleansing oils are formulated with gentle, natural ingredients that are suitable for sensitive skin types. These oils can help to cleanse the skin without causing irritation or stripping away its natural moisture barrier.

Cleansing oil is also suitable for normal skin types looking for a thorough yet gentle cleansing option. It effectively removes makeup, sunscreen, and impurities while leaving the skin feeling balanced and refreshed. Those with combination skin can also benefit from cleansing oil, as it can help to effectively cleanse oily areas without drying out drier areas of the skin. Opting for a lightweight cleansing oil can provide thorough cleansing without weighing down the skin. Cleaning oil can also be suitable for oily skin types. Oil-based cleansers can effectively dissolve excess sebum and impurities on the skin without stripping away too much natural oil, which can help to balance oil production and prevent the skin from becoming overly dry or tight.

Need more help choosing the right skincare products for your skin type and goals? Schedule a consultation with one of our providers to learn more!

How to Remove Age Spots | Featured In Body Network

Dr. Mona expands upon the insights she shared in her recent Body Network feature: 10 Quick Remedies for Age Spots.

Dr. Mona's top recommendations for how to remove age spots.

“Age spots” are small, flat, brown patches that typically appear on areas of the body that have been exposed to a lot of sunlight over time. Common areas include the face, hands, shoulders, chest and arms. If you are wondering how to remove age spots, Dr. Mona is here to share her top tips.

Some quick remedies that you can do to make the spots less noticeable include:

  • Applying over-the-counter skin-lightening creams and lotions
  • Using physician-prescribed topical creams
  • Undergoing laser or light treatments
  • Cryotherapy
  • Microdermabrasion
  • Chemical peels

In addition, sunscreen and some skin cafes can help prevent age spots from coming up.

Skin-Lightening Creams and Lotions

There are numerous skin-brightening options available in drugstores, retail stores, and doctor’s offices that can be used to minimize the appearance of age spots.

Your first line of defense should be a good broad-spectrum sunscreen. This can help protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays. One of my favorites is Colorscience Sunforgettable ® Total Protection ® Face Shield Flex SPF 50 a mineral-based sunscreen that magically autocorrects to your skin tone. A great 2-in-1 product that combines antioxidants with a sunscreen is  SkinMedica Total Defense + Repair SPF 34.

A second line of defense should be antioxidants such as Vitamin C serums and retinoids. You could splurge for  Skinceuticals Phloretin or choose a more affordable option with La Roche Posay’s 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum l La Roche Posay. Retinoids are well known for their anti-aging benefits but can also help with brown spots. RetrinAL Advanced Correcting Serum is a good over-the-counter choice because it combines retinols, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid.

My third line of defense is to use a pigment brightener. This helps to not only lighten brown spots but also prevent brown spots from forming.

To prevent more brown spots from coming to the surface, look for creams that contain tranexamic acid, niacinamide, or kojic acid. Splurge on SKinMedica’s Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment. It’s important to keep in mind that consistent use of creams for weeks or months is necessary for them to be effective on the skin.

Physician-Prescribed Medication or Remedies

If you have already tried over-the-counter products in your search for how to remove age spots, it may be time to consider prescription options. Some patients might require special formulas or creams that are stronger than drugstore options. In such cases, physicians can prescribe more effective remedies, such as hydroquinone or retinoids to treat age spots.

Hydroquinone is a bleaching cream that can be effective at treating superficial age spots, but it should not be used for more than 8-12 weeks at a time without taking a “hydroquinone holiday” for 8-12 weeks before incorporating it back into your skincare routine. It is not recommended to use anything higher than a 4% hydroquinone cream since this can actually cause more brown patches to form, a condition called ochranosis.  As mentioned above,  retinoids are well known for their anti-aging benefits but can also help with brown spots. Prescription Retin-A, or tretinoin, can be an effective way to treat some age spots. 

Age spot procedures

If you want to get rid of dark spots quickly, opting for a procedure that eliminates layers of discolored skin may yield better results compared to using a lightening cream. These techniques include light and laser-based treatments, cryotherapy (freezing), microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. It’s important to note that procedures typically entail higher costs than creams and carry additional risks. 

Laser Treatments

Laser treatment, also known as laser therapy or laser resurfacing, is a medical procedure that uses concentrated light beams to target and treat various skin issues. Narrow beams of light are used to get rid of the cells that cause age spots without damaging the rest of the skin. Treatments such as picosecond lasers have minimal to no downtime, whereas resurfacing lasers may require some preplanning. Depending on the treatment chosen and the amount of sun damage or age spots, desired results may require one to multiple sessions.  Initially, laser treatments may lead to skin crusting or darkening of spots, yet these temporary side effects typically go away quickly. 

Intense Pulse Light Treatments 

IPL or BBL (Broadband light) is a great way to treat both brown age spots and redness from sun damage.  Filters are used to isolate the correct wavelength to target either redness or brown discoloration inyour skin. You can treat the face as well as other areas of the body that have age spots.  This is a very popular treatment because it has minimal downtime and is not painful.  You will need multiple sessions to achieve the best results. 

Chemical Peel

In a chemical peel, a solution containing acids is applied to the skin to eliminate layers where age spots are present. Peels can range from superficial glycolic or salicylic acid peels, which cause dry flaking skin for a few days, or stronger medium-depth peels, such as TCA or phenol peels, that are done by a done by a medical professional and cause more significant peeling with over a week of downtime. Fresh skin will subsequently regenerate, resulting in a more even skin tone. Achieving desired outcomes may necessitate multiple sessions. Although generally considered safe, deeper chemical peels have risks, including scarring, infection, or alterations in skin pigmentation.

Freezing (Cryotherapy)

Cryotherapy is a medical procedure that uses extreme cold temperatures to treat various skin conditions or lesions. Liquid nitrogen is applied to the skin for a few seconds to freeze the areas where the spots are. As your skin heals, it will develop a small crust revealing lighter skin underneath, but the treatment can cause irritation, swelling, blisters, or redness.

Cautery 

Electrocautery can be used to treat some age spits.  In this treatment, an electric current is used to create injury to the superficial layers of skin. This causes an age spot to crust and scab and fall off.  This is a controlled injury using very low energy and should only be used by an experienced health professional. It can be a more effective way to treat some age spots in people of color. 

Dermabrasion

For this procedure, a rapidly spinning brush is used to sand down the spotted skin area so new skin can replace it. Multiple sessions may be necessary for this procedure to be effective. Potential side effects include redness, scabbing, and swelling. Additionally, it may take an extended period for your skin to fully heal and regain its normal appearance. This is not a common way to treat most age spots.) 

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion uses tiny crystals to exfoliate the skin instead of a spinning brush. It’s gentler on the skin compared to dermabrasion. However, achieving the desired results for age spot reduction may require multiple treatments spread over several months. This treatment will only treat the most superficial age spots and will not go below the surface of he skin. One advantage is it will leave your skin feeling more smooth and allows your skin care products to penetrate better.  Possible side effects include temporary redness or flakiness of the skin.

Microneedling

For this procedure, fine needles are used to create small, evenly distributed punctures in your skin. Your body reacts to these minor wounds by producing new collagen and elastin. These are essential components for youthful skin, to facilitate healing. Although this is a great way to rejuvenate the skin and improve overall skin texture and quality, it is not the best way to target age spots.   

Age Spot Prevention

Prevention can be the most effective way to address age spots. First and foremost, avoid excess sun exposure and tanning beds from a young age. Incorporating proper skin care early can also be a great defense.

To maintain lighter age spots and prevent the formation of new ones, try to minimize sun exposure. This is particularly important during peak hours of intensity. Apply a high-quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen before heading outdoors and reapply it frequently. Using gloves, hats, or other clothing on age-spot areas can help shield them and prevent new ones from forming.

The Best Neck Firming Cream | Featured in Vogue

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles were recently featured in Vogue! They are expanding upon their insights in the article, The Best Neck Creams for Hydrating Skin and Smoothing Fine Lines.

 

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles insights in VogueThe Best Neck Cream Formulas for Hydrating Skin and Smoothing Fine Lines

 

Our #1 Choice for Neck Creams

SkinMedica Neck Correct Cream – This product is one of Dr. Mona and Dr. Alexandra’s favorite products that they recommend daily! This product is easily absorbed and non-greasy. This cream features shiitake mushroom extract for skin elasticity and rice protein to strengthen the skin barrier. Additionally, it contains green microalgae extract for environmental protection and skin firmness. It also includes paracress extract, which helps to reduce the appearance of platysmal bands. It also contains hyaluronic acid to ensure hydration, improving texture and softness. These powerhouse ingredients make Neck Correct a great choice for a neck firming cream.

Dr. Mona’s Other Reccomendations

SkinCeuticals TriPeptide R Neck Repair Cream – This cream is packed with retinol to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, tripeptides to boost collagen, and a glaucine complex to firm up the skin. It’s great for the neck, tackling sagging, crepiness, and wrinkles. Plus, it has hydrating ingredients to moisturize and improve skin texture. Additionally, this neck cream touts a 27% average improvement in neck skin crepiness as well as a 16% average improvement in the appearance of horizontal neck lines. 

Alastin Restorative Neck Complex with TriHex Technology – Loaded with peptides and active ingredients, this product has a patented TriHex Technology®  which helps to  clear out damaged collagen and elastin, making way for the stimulated production of new, healthy elastin and collagen. It’s perfect for the neck, addressing fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity, redness and discoloration. It also contains niacinamide and phytoene, which help hydrate and firm up the skin for a youthful look.

Nécessaire The Neck Serum – Formulated with high-quality ingredients like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to calm inflammation, peptides to support collagen production, and hyaluronic acid to provide hydration. This serum also improves skin elasticity. It is a great combo for maintaining a smooth, toned neck at a lower price point.

RoC Multi Correxion Chest, Neck & Face Cream – This multi-tasking cream targets the chest, neck, and face, addressing anti-aging concerns and simplifying your routine. It tackles discoloration, sagging, dryness, dull skin, and wrinkles. Vitamin E and glycerin hydrate and nourish the skin, while SPF 30 protects against sun damage and premature aging. Although I have not used this product and do not recommend it to my patients, it is an affordable option with a sunscreen for photoprotection. 

Dr. Alexandra’s Other Reccomendations

NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Firming Neck Cream – This cream is a great option for those patients looking for firming and improvement in neck complexion. It is packed with potent ingredients like neo glucosamine to reduce uneven pigmentation and fine lines. It also contains pro-amino acids to support collagen production. Additionally, it targets sagging, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, firming and lifting the neck area while improving texture and clarity.

Revision Skincare Nectifirm Advanced – This innovative formula features Diglucosyl Gallic Acid to brighten the skin and enhance tone, peptides to boost collagen and improve firmness, and Red Microalgae Extract for lifting and tightening. It also contains lingonberry extract, which provides potent antioxidant protection against environmental damage.

Dr. Barbara Sturm Super Anti-Aging Neck & Décolleté Cream – This dermatologist-formulated cream contains premium ingredients like purslane, a powerful antioxidant for calming inflammation and promoting skin health; glutamine, an amino acid supporting natural repair and improving firmness and elasticity; and hyaluronic acid for deep hydration. It also includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

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