Dr. Mona shares The 7 Best Peptide Lip Treatments for Plump Lips Without the Sting | ELLE Feature

What are peptides?

Peptides are molecules that are made up of short chains of 2-50 amino acids that we have naturally occurring in our bodies. They play crucial roles in our biological system, functioning as hormones, neurotransmitters, signaling molecules, and enzyme activators, among other things. These bioactive peptides have been shown to decrease inflammation, improve immune function, act as antioxidants, lower blood pressure, and slow down the aging process. Peptides can be found naturally occurring in plants and animals or can be synthetically produced in laboratories. They are more easily absorbed by the body than proteins and can more easily penetrate the skin and intestines so they can more quickly get into the bloodstream. 

Collagen peptides are important for the skin because they have been shown to help build collagen and improve hydration and elasticity in the skin. Effective ones are short-chain hydrolyzed collagen that the body can more easily absorb. There are even some studies looking at their ability to decrease bone loss but more research is needed. Collagen and creatine peptides may also help increase muscle mass, which decreases as we age.

Why are peptides suddenly becoming so popular?

Over the years, peptides have grown in popularity, offering some promising therapeutic potential for a wide range of diseases and conditions due to their ability to precisely target specific biological pathways. Because they are naturally occurring, they tend to be well tolerated. They also affect their desired change more readily, thanks to the fact that they are easily absorbed by the skin and intestines, which makes them more efficient in getting into the bloodstream and their target.  

Over the past decade, advancements in peptide synthesis have made it easier and more cost-effective to produce peptides in the lab, leading to increased research into peptide-based drugs and therapies.  Additionally, peptides can be engineered to specifically target certain cells or tissues in the body which help to enhance the efficacy and safety of peptide-based therapies. There is also a growing demand for peptide therapies in personalized medicine, tailoring treatments to individual patient’s genetic makeup, physiology, and disease characteristics. 

Why are peptides good for the skin?

Peptides offer several benefits for the skin, making them popular ingredients in skincare products. As we age, we lose collagen, and elastin in our skin leading to fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging. We also lose our ability to make hyaluronic acid, which is very important in maintaining our skin’s hydration. Peptides have been shown to help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, improving skin firmness, elasticity, and texture. 

Certain peptides have been shown to support skin repair and renewal processes by helping to accelerate wound healing, reduce inflammation, and promote the regeneration of damaged skin cells. Peptides can also help to attract and retain moisture in the skin, and because of their antioxidant properties, they can help to protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Furthermore, since peptides are generally well-tolerated by the skin, they are less likely to cause irritation or sensitivity compared to other active ingredients, such as retinoids or alpha hydroxy acids. 

Why are peptides beneficial in a lip treatment?

The skin of the lip is different from the rest of your skin. It is thinner and more susceptible to environmental factors such as sun, wind, temperature changes and topical products. Our lips can get more dry, chapped and lose moisture faster than other parts of our bodies. In addition, our lips change as we age. They get thinner as we lose volume with collagen loss, fine lines appear around the mouth, and we lose the definition along the lip border causing lipstick to bleed into the surrounding skin. 

When it comes to a lip treatment, peptides can be valuable ingredients that help to attract and retain moisture in the delicate skin of the lips, keeping them hydrated while preventing dryness, chapping, and flakiness. Some peptides can stimulate collagen production in the lips, leading to improved firmness and volume. Moreover, peptides with skin-repairing properties can support the healing process of chapped or damaged lips by promoting cell regeneration and tissue repair, soothing any irritation, and restoring the natural barrier function of the skin. Peptides can also contribute to a smoother and softer lip texture by promoting cell turnover and enhancing the skin’s natural moisture levels. 

What should you look for in a peptide lip treatment?

When considering a peptide lip treatment, look for a product that contains peptides linked with a lipid to enhance penetration. Secondly, look for one specifically targeted to address your areas of concern, such as stimulating collagen production, promoting hydration, or repairing damaged skin. Pay attention to the concentration of peptides in the product, in that higher concentrations of peptides are generally more effective. 

Consider other ingredients included in the lip treatment formula like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and shea butter that help to keep the lips moisturized. Choose a lip treatment with a texture and formulation that you find comfortable to use such as lip balms, creams, serums, and masks. Opt for lip treatments packaged in tubes, jars, or applicators because they minimize exposure to air and contaminants.

Who can benefit from a peptide lip treatment?

Peptide lip treatments can benefit many people, especially those who experience common lip concerns like dry or chapped lips, or thin or aging lips. Other concerns that a peptide lip treatment can help with are “lip lines” or “smoker’s lines”, and uneven lip tone or pigmentation. Peptides help to minimize these concerns by promoting collagen and elastin synthesis, and improving hydration and skin renewal for smoother and more evenly textured lips. 

Why should you use a lip treatment?

A lip treatment can help with keeping your lips hydrated and protected with moisturizing and antioxidant ingredients, protecting them from dryness and environmental damage. Lip treatments also help to repair lips that are already dry or damaged by using ingredients like ceramides, fatty acids, and peptides that support the skin’s barrier function, promote healing, and accelerate the repair process. 

Some lip treatments also contain ingredients like peptides, retinol, and collagen boosters that help to stimulate collagen production and improve lip firmness as the skin ages and becomes more susceptible to fine lines and wrinkles. The regular use of lip treatments can help improve the texture of the lips, making them softer, smoother, and more supple while maintaining the overall health and vitality of the lips.

Dr. Mona’s recommended peptide lip treatments

One lip treatment I recommend is the SkinMedica HA5 Smooth and Plump Lip System, a two-step lip treatment that includes a peptide-rich serum and a moisturizing balm to hydrate, plump, and smooth the lips. Another great option is the Colorescience Sunforgettable® Lip Shine SPF 35, I love that it offers sun protection in addition to peptides and essential oils. Lastly, Rhode Skin Peptide Lip Treatment offers a great eco-friendly option thanks to their packaging made from upcycled post-consumer materials. 

We’re thrilled to see our provider, Dr. Alexandra Bowles, featured in a recent article on Popsugar: “What Is Microblading? An Expert Answers All of Your Questions”

Expanding on her insights revealed in the interview with Popsugar, Dr. Bowles is sharing the inside scoop on Microblading with you, and what to consider if getting a treatment.

What is Microblading?

Microblading is a cosmetic technique that tattoos the eyebrows to help enhance and reshape them. The practitioner uses small, fine-point needles to deposit pigment into the superficial layers of the skin. Unlike traditional eyebrow tattoos that use a machine, microblading is done by hand, which allows the practitioner to create fine, hair-like strokes that mimic the natural pattern of the eyebrow.

How long will my results last?

It typically lasts between one to three years but it can vary for each individual. Those with oily skin might find that their pigment fades a bit more quickly versus those with less oily skin. In order to get the most out of your microblading treatment, it’s important to follow specific aftercare instructions. This can include moisturizing properly and even avoiding certain activities such as swimming and excessive sweating. Avoiding these activities will help the pigment last longer. 

Other factors that determine the longevity of the pigment include your exposure to sunlight, your body’s own healing process from the procedure, and the quality of the pigment. A combination of using a quality sunscreen, working with your practitioner to determine if any touch ups need to be done, and finding a qualified practitioner to perform the service all play a major factor in the longevity of the service. 

What is the downtime?

Given the procedure involves the use of small yet fine-point needles, you can expect a bit of swelling and redness immediately after the procedure, just as you would any other invasive procedure. 

You may even notice your skin adjust over time to the procedure and show signs of scabbing, flaking, itchiness, darkening or even fading. This is all part of the healing process and over time your skin will adjust and the pigment will lighten as it settles in. You should then start to see the final result. Of course if you have any concerns, questions, or you don’t feel your skin is healing as well, it’s best to follow up with the practitioner.

What does the aftercare look like?

Aftercare is a crucial part of the microblading process to ensure proper healing and long-lasting results. General guidelines include keeping the eyebrows clean and dry for 24-48 hours following the procedure. This includes keeping the eyebrows dry to allow for them to heal. Additionally, applying an ointment will help keep the skin moisturized and protected. 

Similar to any procedure on the skin, you’ll want to avoid excess exposure to the sun, whether that be direct sunlight, tanning beds, and more. Make sure to apply plenty of sunscreen and even consider covering the eye area for added protection.

Aftercare will also include refraining from applying makeup and skincare products for at least one week following the procedure. Not doing so could interfere with the healing process. This is also a good time to simply be gentle with your skin such as not rubbing your eyes or causing any additional irritation to the skin. 

How much can it cost?

The cost of microblading can depend on a number of factors, such as the city you live in, experience of the practitioner, and more. On average, the cost for the procedure can range from $500-$1,000. 

Is it permanent?

It’s important to note that microblading is considered a semi-permanent procedure, meaning the pigment will gradually fade over time and may need to be refreshed with touch-up sessions to maintain the desired appearance. The frequency of touch-ups will depend on individual factors and personal preferences.

There is also a level of risk associated with microbladed brows. Improper technique and poor quality pigment can leave behind a less than ideal color to the skin. I have seen this in a few patients who required laser treatments to attempt to remove the pigment, which is difficult to do in a hair-bearing area as laser removal can also cause permanent hair loss. I caution all of my patients to make sure that their microblading is performed by an experienced professional using a high quality product. 

What does the Microblading feel like?

The pain level experienced during microblading can vary from person to person based on individual pain tolerance, the skill of the technician, and the techniques used. Generally, most people describe the sensation of microblading as uncomfortable rather than painful. 

In most cases, a topical anesthetic will be applied to aid in numbing the area. You will most likely feel the strokes of the pigment being deposited onto the skin. Be sure to communicate to your practitioner if you have any discomfort during the procedure. To ensure a more comfortable and positive microblading experience, it’s important to choose a skilled and experienced technician who uses high-quality tools and techniques.

What is the process of Microblading?

Your experience may vary depending on the practitioner you are seeing, however, most will likely start with a consultation before the actual procedure begins. This will include your ideal eyebrow shape, color of the pigment, and the general look you desire. The practitioner may also assess your eyebrows to customize the treatment for your facial features and based on your desired outcome.

Following the consultation, the topical numbing agent will be applied allowing it to take full effect before beginning. While that sets, your practitioner may map out your eyebrows and ensure your pigment aligns with your eyebrow, skin and hair color. 

Using a sterile, handheld tool with fine-point needles, the technician will carefully map out and shape the eyebrows according to the agreed-upon design. This involves creating precise, hair-like strokes that mimic the natural growth pattern of the eyebrow hairs. The technician may also use a special pencil or marker to outline the shape and arch of the eyebrows before starting the microblading process.

Once the eyebrows are mapped and shaped, the technician will begin using the handheld tool to deposit the chosen pigment into the superficial layers of the skin, creating fine, crisp, and natural-looking strokes. An experienced technician will work meticulously to fill in sparse areas, define the shape, and enhance the overall appearance of the eyebrows. Throughout the microblading process, the technician will periodically apply more pigment to the eyebrows, allowing the color to penetrate the skin and create lasting results. The technician will also ensure that the pigment is evenly distributed and that the strokes blend seamlessly with the natural eyebrow hairs. The entire microblading process typically takes about 2-3 hours to complete, depending on the complexity of the design and the individual’s needs.

We’re thrilled to see our provider, Dr. Alexandra Bowles, featured in a recent article on Byrdie: “Laser Hair Removal vs. Waxing: Which Is Best for You?”

Expanding on her insights revealed in the interview with Byrdie, Dr. Bowles is sharing the inside scoop on these two treatments and how you can choose which one is best for you.

What Is Laser Hair Removal?

Laser hair removal is a cosmetic procedure that uses a laser (also known as concentrated beams of light) to remove unwanted hair. The laser emits light that is absorbed by the pigment (or melanin), found in the hair follicles, which in turn delays future hair growth. 

What Is Waxing?

Waxing is a semi-permanent hair removal method that is easy and efficient, leaving the skin feeling smooth and soft. Waxing allows for a more effective removal of the entire hair with the root, from the follicle, as opposed to shaving. There are different types of wax such as soft wax, also known as strip waxing, and hard wax, which is directly applied onto the skin, cooled for a few minutes, and then pulled and removed in the opposite direction of the hair growth. Other types of waxes include fruit wax which works well for sensitive skin, chocolate wax which works well for skin prone to irritation and redness, and sugar wax, a more natural option for hair removal for people with sensitive skin. 

What results to expect for both? 

The most major difference is that laser hair removal is semi-permanent or in some cases permanent, while waxing must be performed regularly as the hair regrows. Each process of hair removal has its own benefits and drawbacks in terms of lasting quality, effectiveness, and potential side effects. Laser hair removal offers a long-term reduction in hair growth and precision targeting of unwanted hair. Plan for several treatments, typically 5-8, for optimal reduction; and maintenance treatments every year or so. Laser hair removal has minimal discomfort and temporary redness or swelling in the treated area. In some cases, skin pigmentation or scarring can occur during and after the procedure, however seeing a well-trained provider will reduce this risk as they will be able to choose the proper laser and settings for your skin tone or perform a spot test when necessary. Waxing on the other hand provides immediate results, with smoother skin right after the procedure. However, the results from waxing are temporary in that hair usually grows back within a few weeks. Waxing can be painful, especially with sensitive skin, and can cause side effects such as redness, skin irritation, and ingrown hairs.

What skin or hair types are best for laser hair removal vs. waxing?

People with lighter pigmented hair such as blonde or red, are not a candidate for laser hair removal as the laser targets the pigment in the hair follicle and these lighter hair types lack the pigment needed for the laser to work. Waxing or plucking is a good choice for people with this hair type. Individuals with darker hair are good candidates for laser hair removal. It is very important to note that plucking or waxing hair prior to a laser hair removal session is not recommended as this removes the hair follicle entirely, so there is nothing for the laser to target. Dermaplaning or shaving prior to laser hair removal is recommended though, as treating an area with long hair can impede the laser’s ability to get into the follicle. In contrast, waxing comes in different forms that can be used for hair removal, depending on an individual’s preference. Soft wax, which is known as strip waxing and is ideal for removing tiny, fine strands of hair you can’t see, is usually used on larger areas of the body, applied directly to the skin, and removed by a strip of cloth. Hard wax is used for smaller and more sensitive areas like the upper lip, underarms, and bikini area. This form of wax is applied warm and directly on the skin, and once hardened, is peeled off. Fruit wax is similar to hard body wax but is recommended mostly for people with sensitive skin.

What is the pain level for both treatments?

When it comes to laser hair removal, the pain level or discomfort is usually tolerable for most individuals. Most people feel a mild stinging or tingling sensation during the procedure. Sometimes we will use topical numbing cream in certain areas to provide more comfort. Waxing, on the other hand, is generally considered more painful, especially since some areas of the body like the bikini area, underarms, and upper lip are more sensitive. 

What is the cost for both treatments? 

The cost of a laser hair treatment really depends on two factors, treatment area and permanence. Typically, larger treatment areas like the back or legs can cost more than smaller areas. Since laser hair removal is a more permanent option than waxing, for example, you will have to get some maintenance treatments to effectively slow hair growth for an extended period of time. If you follow your complete treatment plan, including maintenance, this could last between 6 to 12 months or longer, which can cost more initially, but can end up being a worthwhile investment down the road. Waxing, on the other hand, is less costly than laser hair removal per treatment. However, since waxing is not a permanent hair removal solution, the cost of getting routine wax treatments for several years can end up being more costly than laser treatment in the end.

What is aftercare like for both treatments?

The aftercare for laser hair removal requires individuals to avoid being exposed to the sun, heat, and irritants such as hot baths, steam rooms, and saunas, as well as resisting the urge to scratch or pick at the treated area. Similarly, for waxing, individuals are encouraged to avoid sun exposure to prevent sunburn and minimize the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Exfoliating gently, moisturizing regularly, and avoiding tight clothing around the waxed area are also ways to reduce the risk of irritation, redness, and dryness of the skin. 

What is the frequency of treatment for both?

Most patients can have laser hair removal sessions once every 4 to 6 weeks, depending on the rate of hair regrowth and also on the treatment area. The hair growth cycle for the face is usually faster so patients might start with a visit every 2 weeks, compared to every 4 weeks for the body. Similarly, for waxing, hair growth is faster in areas like the eyebrows, bikini line, and underarms. For these areas, you will require a wax session every 2-3 weeks. The time between sessions allows for the hair to regrow to a waxable length. In contrast, legs will typically require a waxing session every 3 to 5 weeks. 

Final Thoughts: Which treatment does Dr. Alexandra recommend?

I would recommend laser hair removal as I feel it is a safe and effective way to provide long lasting hair reduction. While it is an investment upfront, the time and money you would save from years of waxing is something important to consider. I also feel that over-waxing some areas can cause permanent discoloration, while laser hair removal does not do this if the treatments are performed properly. It’s very important to get a consultation with a knowledgeable provider who has treated patients with your skin type and to do a test spot if there is a concern of hyperpigmentation. All in all, laser hair removal is a great choice for everyone!