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What is Cleansing Oil?

Cleansing oil has become a trending skincare product in recent years. But is it even a good choice for your skin? Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her thoughts on cleansing oil and tips on how to get the best results.

Cleansing Oils 101

Cleansing oil is a skincare product that removes makeup, dirt, and impurities from the skin. What is unique about cleansing oil is that it also is hydrating and nourishing. Cleansing oils are typically formulated with a combination of natural oils such as jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, etc. These are emulsifiers that work to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin. 

When using a cleansing oil, make sure to first choose the right oil for your skin type. Different oils have unique properties that may be better suited to certain skin types. For example, you may prefer lighter oils like grapeseed or jojoba oil if you have oily or acne-prone skin. If you have dry skin, you may benefit from richer oils like avocado or almond oil. 

I typically recommend applying a small amount to your skin and gently massaging the oil in circular motions to emulsify the oil. This will turn it into a milky consistency that helps lift away dirt and makeup more effectively. Avoid rubbing or pulling at your skin too harshly, especially around the delicate eye area. Once the oil has emulsified, rinse it off thoroughly with lukewarm water. Follow up with your regular skincare routine, including moisturizer to lock in hydration and keep your skin soft and supple.

Cleansing Oil 101 with Dr. Alexandra Bowles

Where did cleansing oils come from? Why are they suddenly so popular?

The origins of cleansing oil can be traced back to traditional Japanese skincare practices. The concept of using oil to cleanse the skin dates back centuries in Japan, where geishas and kabuki actors used a mixture of oils, such as camellia oil, to remove heavy makeup and maintain clear, radiant skin.

Today, the popularity of cleansing oils has become heavily influenced by K-beauty (Korean Beauty) trends. South Korean skincare routines often emphasize thorough cleansing as the first step towards achieving healthy, glowing skin. The double cleansing method, which typically involves using a cleansing oil followed by a water-based cleanser, has become a cornerstone of K-beauty skincare routines. Korean skincare brands have developed a wide range of cleansing oils tailored to different skin types and concerns. Many incorporate ingredients like green tea extract, rice bran oil, and botanical extracts to provide additional skincare benefits beyond just makeup removal.

K-beauty, short for Korean beauty, refers to the skincare and cosmetic products, techniques, and routines that originate from South Korea. It has gained immense popularity globally for its innovative approach to skincare and its focus on achieving healthy, radiant skin through a multi-step regimen. These regimens often include exfoliating, toning, moisturizing, and applying targeted treatments like serums and essences. K-Beauty emphasizes hydration and nourishment while prioritizing gentle formulations with natural ingredients. Incorporating cutting-edge skincare technologies and customizing skincare routines and products for maximum benefit are also popular.

How do cleansing oils compare to normal face washes?

Cleansing oil differs from regular cleansers, face washes, and micellar water primarily in its formulation and mode of action. Cleansing oil is typically formulated with a blend of natural oils (such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, or olive oil) along with an emulsifier that works to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin. In contrast, regular cleansers and face washes often contain water-based formulas with surfactants that help to remove dirt and impurities from the skin.

Cleansing oil works on the principle of “like dissolves like” in that the oil in the cleansing oil binds to the oils and waxes in makeup and sebum on the skin, effectively breaking them down and lifting them away. When emulsified with water, the oil forms a milky texture that can be easily rinsed off, leaving the skin clean and hydrated. Cleansing oil is particularly effective at removing heavy or waterproof makeup. This is because it can break down and dissolve the oils and pigments in makeup products. Micellar water, on the other hand, uses micelles (tiny oil molecules suspended in water) to attract and remove dirt, makeup, and impurities from the skin without rinsing. While micellar water can effectively remove light makeup and cleanse the skin, it may not be as effective for heavy or waterproof makeup as cleansing oil.

Cleansing oil often provides additional hydration to the skin due to its oil-based formulation. It can help to replenish the skin’s natural oils and prevent it from feeling dry or tight after cleansing. Micellar water is also gentle and hydrating but may not provide as much moisture as cleansing oil, especially for dry or dehydrated skin.

Avene Xeracalm AD Lipid Replenishing Cleansing Oil
Avene Xeracalm AD Lipid Replenishing Cleansing Oil

What to Look for in Cleansing Oil:

When choosing a cleansing oil, it’s essential to consider both the ingredients and the texture to ensure that it suits your skin type and preferences. I recommend looking for cleansing oils formulated with natural oils like jojoba oil, coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, or sunflower seed oil. These oils can effectively dissolve makeup and impurities while providing nourishment to the skin. Ingredients like vitamin E, green tea extract, or rosehip oil can provide antioxidant benefits, helping to protect the skin from environmental damage and signs of aging. Cleansing oils enriched with botanical extracts such as chamomile, lavender, or calendula can soothe and calm the skin, making them suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.

Look for cleansing oils that contain emulsifiers like polysorbate or sorbitan oleate. These ingredients help the oil to emulsify with water, allowing it to rinse off cleanly without leaving a greasy residue.

Consider Your Skin Type:

If you have sensitive skin or are prone to irritation, consider opting for fragrance-free cleansing oils to minimize the risk of allergic reactions. Some cleansing oils have a lightweight texture that feels thin and non-greasy on the skin. These are suitable for all skin types, including oily or combination skin, and are easily emulsified with water for rinsing. A product I like to recommend to my patients is Avene’s Xeracalm Cleansing Oil which has a nourishing, biodegradable formula that seals in moisture and helps balance the skin’s microbiome while restoring the skin barrier. It’s also suitable for all ages, including newborns, and can be used for cleansing the face, body, and scalp. 

On the other hand, if you have dry or dehydrated skin, you may prefer a cleansing oil with a richer texture that feels more moisturizing on the skin. These oils provide extra hydration and can leave the skin feeling soft and supple after cleansing. Make sure to also look for cleansing oils labeled as non-comedogenic, meaning they are less likely to clog pores or cause breakouts. These oils are suitable for acne-prone or sensitive skin types.

Tips for Adding Cleansing Oil to Your Routine:

Cleansing oil can be used as either the first or second step in your cleansing routine, depending on your preference and skincare needs.

If you are using a cleansing oil as your first step:

  • Start with dry hands and a dry face and apply a small amount of cleansing oil into your palm (typically 1-2 pumps).
  • Gently massage it onto your skin using circular motions for about a minute or two.
  • Wet your hands slightly and continue massaging the oil onto your skin to emulsify the oil. This will turn it into a milky texture that will help to lift away dirt and impurities.
  • Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water until all traces of oil, makeup, and impurities are removed from your skin.
  • Follow up with a water-based cleanser if desired as part of a double cleansing routine. 

If you are using a cleansing oil as your second step:

  • Start with a dry face and use a water-based cleanser to cleanse your skin first. A gel cleanser or foaming cleanser works well for this.
  • Massage the cleanser onto your skin using gentle circular motions, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.

Double cleansing with a cleansing oil as the second step helps to ensure that all traces of makeup, sunscreen, and impurities are effectively removed from the skin without stripping away too much natural moisture.

Our provider Jessica, PA-C talks more about how to double cleanse using cleansing oil in her Skincare Hacks blog post.

Who is a candidate for cleansing oils?

Cleansing oil can benefit a wide range of skin types and concerns, making it a versatile option in skincare routines. It can be particularly beneficial for those with dry skin. This is because it helps to nourish and hydrate the skin while effectively removing impurities. The oils in the cleansing oil can replenish the skin’s natural oils, leaving it feeling soft, supple, and moisturized. Many cleansing oils are formulated with gentle, natural ingredients that are suitable for sensitive skin types. These oils can help to cleanse the skin without causing irritation or stripping away its natural moisture barrier.

Cleansing oil is also suitable for normal skin types looking for a thorough yet gentle cleansing option. It effectively removes makeup, sunscreen, and impurities while leaving the skin feeling balanced and refreshed. Those with combination skin can also benefit from cleansing oil, as it can help to effectively cleanse oily areas without drying out drier areas of the skin. Opting for a lightweight cleansing oil can provide thorough cleansing without weighing down the skin. Cleaning oil can also be suitable for oily skin types. Oil-based cleansers can effectively dissolve excess sebum and impurities on the skin without stripping away too much natural oil, which can help to balance oil production and prevent the skin from becoming overly dry or tight.

Need more help choosing the right skincare products for your skin type and goals? Schedule a consultation with one of our providers to learn more!

How to Remove Age Spots | Featured In Body Network

Dr. Mona expands upon the insights she shared in her recent Body Network feature: 10 Quick Remedies for Age Spots.

Dr. Mona's top recommendations for how to remove age spots.

“Age spots” are small, flat, brown patches that typically appear on areas of the body that have been exposed to a lot of sunlight over time. Common areas include the face, hands, shoulders, chest and arms. If you are wondering how to remove age spots, Dr. Mona is here to share her top tips.

Some quick remedies that you can do to make the spots less noticeable include:

  • Applying over-the-counter skin-lightening creams and lotions
  • Using physician-prescribed topical creams
  • Undergoing laser or light treatments
  • Cryotherapy
  • Microdermabrasion
  • Chemical peels

In addition, sunscreen and some skin cafes can help prevent age spots from coming up.

Skin-Lightening Creams and Lotions

There are numerous skin-brightening options available in drugstores, retail stores, and doctor’s offices that can be used to minimize the appearance of age spots.

Your first line of defense should be a good broad-spectrum sunscreen. This can help protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays. One of my favorites is Colorscience Sunforgettable ® Total Protection ® Face Shield Flex SPF 50 a mineral-based sunscreen that magically autocorrects to your skin tone. A great 2-in-1 product that combines antioxidants with a sunscreen is  SkinMedica Total Defense + Repair SPF 34.

A second line of defense should be antioxidants such as Vitamin C serums and retinoids. You could splurge for  Skinceuticals Phloretin or choose a more affordable option with La Roche Posay’s 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum l La Roche Posay. Retinoids are well known for their anti-aging benefits but can also help with brown spots. RetrinAL Advanced Correcting Serum is a good over-the-counter choice because it combines retinols, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid.

My third line of defense is to use a pigment brightener. This helps to not only lighten brown spots but also prevent brown spots from forming.

To prevent more brown spots from coming to the surface, look for creams that contain tranexamic acid, niacinamide, or kojic acid. Splurge on SKinMedica’s Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment. It’s important to keep in mind that consistent use of creams for weeks or months is necessary for them to be effective on the skin.

Physician-Prescribed Medication or Remedies

If you have already tried over-the-counter products in your search for how to remove age spots, it may be time to consider prescription options. Some patients might require special formulas or creams that are stronger than drugstore options. In such cases, physicians can prescribe more effective remedies, such as hydroquinone or retinoids to treat age spots.

Hydroquinone is a bleaching cream that can be effective at treating superficial age spots, but it should not be used for more than 8-12 weeks at a time without taking a “hydroquinone holiday” for 8-12 weeks before incorporating it back into your skincare routine. It is not recommended to use anything higher than a 4% hydroquinone cream since this can actually cause more brown patches to form, a condition called ochranosis.  As mentioned above,  retinoids are well known for their anti-aging benefits but can also help with brown spots. Prescription Retin-A, or tretinoin, can be an effective way to treat some age spots. 

Age spot procedures

If you want to get rid of dark spots quickly, opting for a procedure that eliminates layers of discolored skin may yield better results compared to using a lightening cream. These techniques include light and laser-based treatments, cryotherapy (freezing), microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. It’s important to note that procedures typically entail higher costs than creams and carry additional risks. 

Laser Treatments

Laser treatment, also known as laser therapy or laser resurfacing, is a medical procedure that uses concentrated light beams to target and treat various skin issues. Narrow beams of light are used to get rid of the cells that cause age spots without damaging the rest of the skin. Treatments such as picosecond lasers have minimal to no downtime, whereas resurfacing lasers may require some preplanning. Depending on the treatment chosen and the amount of sun damage or age spots, desired results may require one to multiple sessions.  Initially, laser treatments may lead to skin crusting or darkening of spots, yet these temporary side effects typically go away quickly. 

Intense Pulse Light Treatments 

IPL or BBL (Broadband light) is a great way to treat both brown age spots and redness from sun damage.  Filters are used to isolate the correct wavelength to target either redness or brown discoloration inyour skin. You can treat the face as well as other areas of the body that have age spots.  This is a very popular treatment because it has minimal downtime and is not painful.  You will need multiple sessions to achieve the best results. 

Chemical Peel

In a chemical peel, a solution containing acids is applied to the skin to eliminate layers where age spots are present. Peels can range from superficial glycolic or salicylic acid peels, which cause dry flaking skin for a few days, or stronger medium-depth peels, such as TCA or phenol peels, that are done by a done by a medical professional and cause more significant peeling with over a week of downtime. Fresh skin will subsequently regenerate, resulting in a more even skin tone. Achieving desired outcomes may necessitate multiple sessions. Although generally considered safe, deeper chemical peels have risks, including scarring, infection, or alterations in skin pigmentation.

Freezing (Cryotherapy)

Cryotherapy is a medical procedure that uses extreme cold temperatures to treat various skin conditions or lesions. Liquid nitrogen is applied to the skin for a few seconds to freeze the areas where the spots are. As your skin heals, it will develop a small crust revealing lighter skin underneath, but the treatment can cause irritation, swelling, blisters, or redness.

Cautery 

Electrocautery can be used to treat some age spits.  In this treatment, an electric current is used to create injury to the superficial layers of skin. This causes an age spot to crust and scab and fall off.  This is a controlled injury using very low energy and should only be used by an experienced health professional. It can be a more effective way to treat some age spots in people of color. 

Dermabrasion

For this procedure, a rapidly spinning brush is used to sand down the spotted skin area so new skin can replace it. Multiple sessions may be necessary for this procedure to be effective. Potential side effects include redness, scabbing, and swelling. Additionally, it may take an extended period for your skin to fully heal and regain its normal appearance. This is not a common way to treat most age spots.) 

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion uses tiny crystals to exfoliate the skin instead of a spinning brush. It’s gentler on the skin compared to dermabrasion. However, achieving the desired results for age spot reduction may require multiple treatments spread over several months. This treatment will only treat the most superficial age spots and will not go below the surface of he skin. One advantage is it will leave your skin feeling more smooth and allows your skin care products to penetrate better.  Possible side effects include temporary redness or flakiness of the skin.

Microneedling

For this procedure, fine needles are used to create small, evenly distributed punctures in your skin. Your body reacts to these minor wounds by producing new collagen and elastin. These are essential components for youthful skin, to facilitate healing. Although this is a great way to rejuvenate the skin and improve overall skin texture and quality, it is not the best way to target age spots.   

Age Spot Prevention

Prevention can be the most effective way to address age spots. First and foremost, avoid excess sun exposure and tanning beds from a young age. Incorporating proper skin care early can also be a great defense.

To maintain lighter age spots and prevent the formation of new ones, try to minimize sun exposure. This is particularly important during peak hours of intensity. Apply a high-quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen before heading outdoors and reapply it frequently. Using gloves, hats, or other clothing on age-spot areas can help shield them and prevent new ones from forming.

The Best Neck Firming Cream | Featured in Vogue

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles were recently featured in Vogue! They are expanding upon their insights in the article, The Best Neck Creams for Hydrating Skin and Smoothing Fine Lines.

 

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles insights in VogueThe Best Neck Cream Formulas for Hydrating Skin and Smoothing Fine Lines

 

Our #1 Choice for Neck Creams

SkinMedica Neck Correct Cream – This product is one of Dr. Mona and Dr. Alexandra’s favorite products that they recommend daily! This product is easily absorbed and non-greasy. This cream features shiitake mushroom extract for skin elasticity and rice protein to strengthen the skin barrier. Additionally, it contains green microalgae extract for environmental protection and skin firmness. It also includes paracress extract, which helps to reduce the appearance of platysmal bands. It also contains hyaluronic acid to ensure hydration, improving texture and softness. These powerhouse ingredients make Neck Correct a great choice for a neck firming cream.

Dr. Mona’s Other Reccomendations

SkinCeuticals TriPeptide R Neck Repair Cream – This cream is packed with retinol to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, tripeptides to boost collagen, and a glaucine complex to firm up the skin. It’s great for the neck, tackling sagging, crepiness, and wrinkles. Plus, it has hydrating ingredients to moisturize and improve skin texture. Additionally, this neck cream touts a 27% average improvement in neck skin crepiness as well as a 16% average improvement in the appearance of horizontal neck lines. 

Alastin Restorative Neck Complex with TriHex Technology – Loaded with peptides and active ingredients, this product has a patented TriHex Technology®  which helps to  clear out damaged collagen and elastin, making way for the stimulated production of new, healthy elastin and collagen. It’s perfect for the neck, addressing fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity, redness and discoloration. It also contains niacinamide and phytoene, which help hydrate and firm up the skin for a youthful look.

Nécessaire The Neck Serum – Formulated with high-quality ingredients like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to calm inflammation, peptides to support collagen production, and hyaluronic acid to provide hydration. This serum also improves skin elasticity. It is a great combo for maintaining a smooth, toned neck at a lower price point.

RoC Multi Correxion Chest, Neck & Face CreamThis multi-tasking cream targets the chest, neck, and face, addressing anti-aging concerns and simplifying your routine. It tackles discoloration, sagging, dryness, dull skin, and wrinkles. Vitamin E and glycerin hydrate and nourish the skin, while SPF 30 protects against sun damage and premature aging. Although I have not used this product and do not recommend it to my patients, it is an affordable option with a sunscreen for photoprotection. 

Dr. Alexandra’s Other Reccomendations

NeoStrata Skin Active Triple Firming Neck Cream – This cream is a great option for those patients looking for firming and improvement in neck complexion. It is packed with potent ingredients like neo glucosamine to reduce uneven pigmentation and fine lines. It also contains pro-amino acids to support collagen production. Additionally, it targets sagging, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, firming and lifting the neck area while improving texture and clarity.

Revision Skincare Nectifirm AdvancedThis innovative formula features Diglucosyl Gallic Acid to brighten the skin and enhance tone, peptides to boost collagen and improve firmness, and Red Microalgae Extract for lifting and tightening. It also contains lingonberry extract, which provides potent antioxidant protection against environmental damage.

Dr. Barbara Sturm Super Anti-Aging Neck & Décolleté CreamThis dermatologist-formulated cream contains premium ingredients like purslane, a powerful antioxidant for calming inflammation and promoting skin health; glutamine, an amino acid supporting natural repair and improving firmness and elasticity; and hyaluronic acid for deep hydration. It also includes anti-inflammatory ingredients, making it suitable for sensitive skin types.

Skincare Hacks

Skincare is more than just a routine; it’s how you practice self-care and make yourself feel good. In our busy lives, finding quick and effective skincare methods is essential. Whether you’re dealing with sun damage, skin breakouts, or early signs of aging, skincare hacks can be a game changer. Jessica, PA-C, has just the tips for you! Explore these skincare hacks and see how small changes can make a big difference in your daily routine and make things easier.

Double Cleansing 101 

What is double cleansing?

 You may have seen the double-cleansing trend on social media. Jessica, PA-C, shares why it’s a great habit to add to your routine. A gentle cleanser is the best choice for most skin types, but on its own, it may not be enough to remove makeup and excess dirt, pollutants, and oil that your skin may be exposed to during the day. By double cleansing, you can ensure you are removing all of these impurities while still treating your skin with gentle products.

How do I double cleanse?

Jessica, PA-C, recommends starting with an oil-based cleanser or micellar water. Your second cleanser will vary depending on your skin type. For example, if you have more oily skin, Jessica, PA-C, recommends a foaming cleanser, and if you have dryer skin, she suggests trying a cream or water-based cleanser. If you aren’t sure what skin type you are or which cleanser will be best for your skin, take our cleanser quiz! If you want a deeper dive into the right products for your skin, schedule a consultation with one of our providers.

 

Sunscreen Application Made Easy

Are you someone who dreads putting on your sunscreen? Jessica, PA-C, understands your pain and has just the tip for making daily sunscreen application more enjoyable. As we know, wearing sunscreen daily is one of the best ways to prevent premature aging. Jessica loves using a foundation brush instead of her hand to make sunscreen application easier. Her favorite sunscreen to pair with this tip is ColoreScience Glow! She puts the sunscreen on the brush and then applies it to her face for a smooth, even application. ColoreScience Glow, or any tinted facial sunscreen, is the perfect lightweight substitute for traditional foundation makeup with the added benefit of extra sun protection!

Prevent Wrinkles As You Sleep

Could the way you sleep be causing your wrinkles?

Can the way you sleep cause wrinkles? Jessica, PA-C, shares her insights on this trending topic and why the way you sleep could be causing those pesky vertical lines on your face. If you commonly sleep on your stomach or side, you may be more prone to these wrinkles. Sleeping this way squishes your face, creating vertical wrinkles over time. 

How to prevent wrinkles when sleeping:

Jessica, PA-C, encourages you to sleep on your back instead of your side or stomach. She recommends this because it prevents your face from being compressed by the pillow and, in turn, helps prevent the vertical lines from appearing on your face. If you have difficulty sleeping on your back, Jessica, PA-C, suggests using a trainer pillow. These specialty pillows will help you learn how to sleep comfortably on your back over time. Another option is wearing silicone patches to sleep to help minimize creases. Jessica, PA-C’s favorite silicone patches are Frownies, Sio, and Wrinkles Schmickles. 

Sun Protection From Within 

Did you know there are other ways to protect your skin from the sun beyond sunscreen? Everyone has that fear of missing a spot when applying sunscreen. Adding Sun ISDIN as a supplement will help neutralize the free radical damage from the sun and boost your protection. However, it is essential to note that it is not a substitute for sunscreen! Sun ISDIN is a great supplement or a layer of protection in addition to still applying your daily sunscreen.

Vitamins for Improved Skin Cancer Prevention

You may be someone who has had multiple skin cancers, or you may know someone who is commonly treated with skin cancers every time they visit the dermatologist. Jessica, PA-C, understands your struggles and has a safe and effective way to help reduce your risks. Consider adding a simple B vitamin into your routine, which can help. When this is taken twice a day, vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, has been shown in multiple studies to decrease the risk of skin cancers. Check with your doctor and get approval before adding vitamin B3 to your routine. This supplement is very well tolerated for most patients with minimal to no side effects. 

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The 12 Best Sunscreens | Featured In Everyday Health

Dr. Mona Foad expands upon the insights she shared in her recent feature in Everyday Health: The 12 Best Sunscreens for All Budgets, Skin Tones, and Skin Types.

Dr. Mona shares her insights on The Best sunscreens for budget, skin tones, and skin type in Everyday Health

What are the best active ingredients to look for in a sunscreen?

Some of the best active ingredients that you can find in sunscreen include Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. These ingredients provide protection into the UVA spectrum. As mineral sunscreens, they are also less likely to cause allergic reactions when applied. If you don’t want to use mineral based sunscreen but still want UVA protection, look for Avobenzone as an ingredient.  

Avobenzone is a chemical sunscreen that protects against UVA rays. It is often used in combination with other chemical sunscreens that protect against UVB rays. Zinc Oxide is my favorite because it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Sunscreens are divided into physical blocks and chemical sunscreens. Physical sunscreens, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, protect the skin against UVA and UVB rays by deflecting the sun’s rays. They also provide instant protection against sun damage to the skin and preventing sunburn and sun damage in the process. Avobenzone, a chemical sunscreen ingredient used as a UV filter, helps to protect the skin from harmful rays by absorbing the UVA rays. Octocrylene, a chemical filter, helps stabilize Avobenzone and absorb UVA rays and is often included to make a sunscreen more water resistant. 

Which sunscreen ingredients should I avoid?

The most concerning sunscreen ingredient is oxybenzone because it is easily absorbed through the skin even after sunscreen has been applied. This increases the risk of skin irritation and long-term health effects. Oxybenzone has been shown to be systemically absorbed 50-100 times higher than other sunscreens. Both Oxybenzone and octinoxate have both been banned from use in Hawaii.   

What should I look for when buying a sunscreen?

When trying to select the best sunscreen for your skin, make sure the label says “Broad Spectrum,” meaning the sunscreen can protect your skin from both UVA and UVB rays and “SPF 30 or higher” to provide better protection. You do not necessarily need a sunscreen that is higher than spf 50 because the percentage increase in protection is minimal past that.

I would choose a sunscreen that works with your skin type. If you are oily, you may want to choose a lighter weight sunscreen or one that is water based, whereas one that is more moisturizing may be better if you are more dry.  If you have sensitive skin or have rosacea, I would stay away from chemical sunscreen and use mineral sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Finally, if you have melasma, I would use a tinted sunscreen because the iron oxides can protect your skin from infrared as well as the UV Rays. If you are going to be in the water or more sweaty, you may want to look for one that is more “water resistant”.   

Dr. Mona’s Top Sunscreen Recommendations:

  • Best Tinted: Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50
    • This lightweight tinted sunscreen combines mineral sunscreens and antioxidants to protect your skin against UV rays, Infrared and Blue light with their patented EnviroScreen® Technology.  This sunscreen comes in 4 shades, fair, medium, tan and deep, and magically adapts to your skin color. This sunscreen is safe for all skin types.
  • Best for Acne-Prone Skin: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
    • This is a fan favorite for people who want protection but do not want to feel like they are wearing sunscreen.  If you are acne prone, you may opt for a lighter weight product such as the Elta MD UV Clear formulated with 9% zinc oxide and  5% Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) to help reduce the appearance of blemishes and discoloration on your skin. This broad spectrum sunscreen contains micronized zinc oxide to protect your skin from damaging UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) rays. It is fragrance-free, paraben-free and non-comedogenic.

Other Recommendations:

  • Best Reef Safe: Stream2Sea EcoStick Sunscreen Sport SPF 35+
    • Hawaii has banned many chemical sunscreen components such as oxybenzone and octinoxate due to their deleterious effect on the coral reef.  This lightweight, water resistant stick has been formulated with EcoSafe Zinc™, a non-nano, naturally-coated, USP grade certified zinc oxide that has passed rigorous aquatic safety testing to be reef safe. It is fragrance free, great for sensitive skin and has the added benefit of having an antioxidant blend to help further protect your skin.You can use this and feel good that you are protecting your skin as well as the environment.
  • Best Body and Best for Children: Love Sun Body Sheer Perfection Mineral Body Sunscreen SPF 50
    • This is a great non greasy mineral based sunscreen that uses a non nano zinc oxide and non nano titanium dioxide to protect your body and face. Approved for use 6 months and up, this lightweight sunscreen is easy to rub in and does not leave a messy white cast all over your body. I love that it is reef safe as well and is good for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
  • Best Tinted: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Tinted Sunscreen for Face SPF 50
    • This mineral based sunscreen uses patented Cell-Ox technology with titanium dioxide and an antioxidant blend to protect against UV rays. Titanium dioxide is well tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and the iron oxide in titanium dioxide protects against infrared and creates a nice tint for extra coverage.

Does the form of sunscreen make a difference?

In some ways, the form of sunscreen does matter, as it can impact its effectiveness, application, and coverage. The most common forms of sunscreen are lotions and creams, which are best for full-body application. They are easy to apply, and their density ensures better skin coverage and protection.

Sprays are a more convenient option because they are quick and easy to use, especially for children. The disadvantage of spray sunscreens is the lack of even application. To ensure proper protection, spray a very generous amount of sunscreen and rub it into the skin. It would also be better to apply a spray sunscreen indoors as opposed to outside. When applying outside, the wind may disperse an aerosolized sunscreen spray.

Stick sunscreens are great for sensitive areas around the eyes, face, ears, and lips. As long as the sunscreen is chemical-free, it should not cause skin irritation. Brush on sunscreens can be a great way to touch up sunscreen during the day without disturbing makeup. Brush on sunscreens are also a favorite among golfers, because they do not leave any residue on your hands. Sticks and brush on are convenient, mess-free, and easy to apply. Ultimately, whatever your preference for sunscreen may be, you must apply sunscreen generously and consistently to ensure that your skin is protected from UV radiation. 

Is it okay to go outside without sunscreen on?

Generally speaking, if not applying any form of sunscreen, try to limit exposure to 5-15 minutes at a time, 2-3 times a week. Walking to your car from your office or getting your mail might not require you to apply sunscreen, but if you know you will be outside for more extended periods of time, especially during peak sun hours, applying sunscreen is crucial.

Also, certain medications, a history of skin cancer, or sensitive skin can increase sun sensitivity and skin reactions. It’s equally important that individuals who fit into these categories use sunscreen generously when outdoors. 

What are common mistakes people make with sunscreen?

I think one of the biggest mistakes people should avoid when applying sunscreen is using too little. Most people only apply 25-50% of the recommended amount of sunscreen. To ensure full body coverage, most adults need about one ounce of sunscreen. 

Another common mistake to avoid is applying sunscreen only in sunny weather. The sun emits harmful UV rays all year. Even on cloudy days, up to 80% of UV rays can penetrate your skin. To protect your skin and reduce the risk of skin cancer, apply sunscreen even on cloudy days. 

The effectiveness of sunscreen decreases over time and when exposed to high temperatures or sunlight. As a result, make sure you are not using an expired sunscreen. Most sunscreens expire within 1 year. For this same reason, it is also important to reapply sunscreen regularly when outdoors, in the water, or doing an outdoor activity.

Lip Filler vs Lip Flip | Which is Right For You?

What is the difference between lip filler and a lip flip?

Lip filler is a hyaluronic acid injectable that adds hydration or volume to your lips. It is a fantastic enhancement treatment that will leave you with noticeable results. A lip flip, on the other hand, involves a Botox injection into your upper or bottom lip, or both. Botox is used to help relax the muscles, allowing the lips to ‘flip’ outward and appear fuller. While lip fillers add physical volume to the lips, a lip flip enhances the shape by relaxing the muscles around the lips, creating a subtle outward curl.

Lip filler vs lip flip, Juvederm, botox, filler

How do you know which treatment is better for you?

Megan, PA-C, suggests that if you are unsure about getting a lip filler treatment, begin with a lip flip. A lip flip creates shorter-term and more subtle results. For these reasons, a lip flip could be a good place to start if you aren’t sure if lip enhancements are right for you. If you wish to add hydration or volume to your lips, Megan PA-C suggests getting lip filler because it provides both these enhancements with longer-lasting results. Additionally, lip fillers can be more versatile in achieving different looks, from subtle enhancement to more enhanced volume, depending on your preferences and goals.

How long do the results last?

Our providers typically utilize hyaluronic acid-based fillers, such as Juvederm or RHA, for lip enhancement procedures. These fillers generally last between 8 and 18 months; however, it is important to note that everyone metabolizes filler at different rates, causing variations in the duration of results. Lip filler touch-ups may be necessary after approximately one year. Alternatively, some fillers, like Bellafill, can last significantly longer (2-5 years). However, these types of fillers are not dissolvable and are used less commonly for lip filler treatments.

A lip flip treatment, on the other hand, typically lasts for about 3-4 months. Since Botox is used to relax the muscles around the lips, the results are temporary and will gradually diminish as muscle movement returns to the area. Some patients may notice their results lessening sooner, as it is a high-movement area with strong muscles.

What do the results look like?

Lip filler results can vary from subtle to dramatic based on the amount of filler used and the patient’s specific goals. Generally, patients can expect plumper, more hydrated lips with enhanced shape and definition. The results are immediately visible, though there might be some initial swelling that subsides within a few days.

A lip flip results in a more subtle enhancement compared to fillers. The lips will appear slightly fuller and more defined due to the relaxed muscles, but without the added volume that fillers provide. The effect is often described as a gentle, natural-looking enhancement. For this reason, it is perfect for those seeking a less invasive option or a trial before committing to fillers.

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Lip filler 

Lip filler results, Juvederm

  BEFORE                                                     AFTER

Lip flip 

Lip flip results, Botox

 

BEFORE                                                     AFTER



The Best Moisturizers for Glowing Skin | Featured In Glamour

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles expand upon the insights they shared in Glamour’s most recent article on “The Best Moisturizers for Glowing Skin.”

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles insights on the best moiturizers for glowing skin

What moisturizer do you most recommend for glowing skin?

Dr. Mona Foad

When looking for a moisturizer, I first start by asking what type of skin someone has.  Are they oily, normal, sensitive, or dry?  For someone who is oily, I tend to suggest lightweight humectant-rich gel or lotion moisturizers. These are helpful because they are not going to block their pores and cause them to break out. If someone is more dry, I look for more humectant-rich creams or oils to help seal in their moisture.  Moisturizers help to lock in moisture and keep your skin barrier in tip-top shape. Without the right one for you, you can develop breakouts or your skin may get irritated. 

However, moisturizers are only part of the answer to more “glowy skin.”. You should evaluate why your skin is not glowing. Possible reasons may include:

  • Your skin is more dry: You may need to add in a topical hyaluronic acid to build hydration.
  • You are getting older: Your cellular turnover has slowed down, leading to a more dull appearance.
  • Environmental damage: Factors such as sun exposure and pollution that have caused you to lose that youthful glow.

A moisturizer is very important to lock in and seal your own hydration. To truly achieve more glowing skin, I recommend adding in skin care products that target changes in your skin. These include hyaluronic acid, exfoliants, antioxidants, retinol, and sunscreen.   

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

When I hear patients requesting glowy skin, I like to educate them that it’s not just about what you’re putting on top of the skin, but also how well you’re taking care of your skin holistically. My top tips for caring for your skin include:

  • Stay hydrated
  • Use sunscreen to avoid UV damage
  • Use proper active ingredients such as antioxidants and retinoids when appropriate
  • Seal all of those healthy skin cells in with a moisturizer that helps bring out that hydrated, glowy look

First and foremost, I always recommend a hyaluronic acid-based serum. Skinmedica’s HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator has 5 types of hyaluronic acid, each working with your skin to help draw moisture into the skin and lock it in. I like this serum specifically because I think it does a great job of providing that glowy look with an elegant finish that looks great alone or layers well under makeup. For a more affordable option, Vichy Mineral 89 Serum is also a HA-based serum that I love, especially as a base for my more dry patients, such as those taking isotretinoin.

To seal these serums in, I recommend a cream-based moisturizer. My favorite is the Skinmedica Dermal Repair Cream. It has a light finish and leaves the skin glowing. For a drugstore option, CeraVe Facial Moisturizer is a great option. They have both an AM and PM version, one with SPF and one without. 

What other products should we use to promote glowing skin?

Dr. Mona Foad

Hyaluronic acid (HA) acts as a “water grabber” and is important for building your skin’s hydration, or water content. Without enough HA, your skin will be drier and therefore look less glowing. As we get older, we lose our ability to make HA. For this reason, adding it to your skincare routine becomes even more important. My favorite is SkinMedica’s HA5 which has 5 cross-linked hyaluronic acids. This helps your skin build its own hyaluronic acid rather than just adding it topically.  

Our skin has a natural shedding process. As we get older, this slows down and can lead to dull, dry, and rough skin. Using exfoliants appropriate for your skin type is a great way to gently shed the top layer of dead skin. This gentle exfoliation can help unclog pores, smooth skin, and reveal healthier glowing skin below. They also help other products penetrate the skin better so they can be more effective. There are many options ranging from alpha, beta, and polyhydroxy acids. 

I always encourage a topical antioxidant to help fight environmental damage such as UV rays, pollution, and blue light. These environmental aggressors can make your skin look more dull and cause your skin to age. Vitamin C is the most well-known and common antioxidant. It helps to brighten your skin, protect against UV damage, and help build collagen.  

Retinols or a prescription Retin-A can help to stimulate cellular turnover and have the added anti-aging benefit of helping with collagen production. Both of these processes help with overall skin health and appearance. 

I would be remiss if I did not mention sunscreen! Make sure that you wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin from the most common cause of photodamage, the sun. 

What is the best moisturizer for dry skin?

Dr. Mona Foad

Moisturizers are made up of humectants, emollients, and occlusives.  If you have more dry skin, you will want to consider humectant-rich creams over lotions and add oils to your routine when needed, such as squalene oil. You may also want to consider occlusives, such as Vaseline or Aquaphor, to aid areas that are especially dry or flaking.  I tend to suggest fragrance-free products to avoid any potential irritation. I like Avene Tolerance Control Soothing Recovery Balm as a more affordable option for sensitive skin. Additionally, SkinMedica’s TNS Ceramide Treatment Cream is a heavier cream that is great for very dry skin thanks to its added ceramides. 

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

For dry skin, I recommend a cream-based moisturizer. I really like Cerave Cream Moisturizer for the body because it has a thick cream vehicle full of ceramides and hyaluronic acid to help improve the hydration of the skin and keep the skin barrier happy and healthy. It comes in a big tub that makes application a breeze. It is also a great option for sensitive skin as it was designed by dermatologists and is accepted by the National Eczema Association.

One thing I think a lot of patients miss is that you want to prevent dry skin, not just treat it after it happens. To help lock in moisture and prevent dry skin, I recommend moisturizing daily, preferably immediately following showering. By preventing dry skin, you’re also improving the integrity of the skin barrier and preventing micro-cracks and tears that can lead to chapped skin or flare-ups of other issues such as eczema. 

For dry or cracked hands, I recommend the Norwegian Formula Hand Cream from Neutrogena. For dry lips, I recommend Vaseline or Aquaphor. I prefer these as they are very gentle and provide an occlusive-like moisturization without dyes or perfumes that can irritate the lips.

How to Get Rid of Scalp Acne? | Featured In First For Women

Dr. Alexandra Bowles expands upon her insights on scalp acne from her recent First For Women feature: How to Get Rid of Scalp Acne According to Top Dermatologists.

Dr. Alexandra Bowles | Insights on how to get rid of scalp acne | Featured in First for Women

 

What is scalp acne?

Scalp acne is an informal term used to describe small pimples or bumps that appear on the scalp. In some cases, this is not technically true acne. Scalp acne, also known as scalp folliculitis, is a condition characterized by small, inflamed bumps on the scalp. These bumps often look similar to acne lesions on the face and body. Folliculitis is typically caused by inflammation or infection of the hair follicles. This is due to factors such as excess oil production, bacteria, yeast, or other irritants. 

Scalp acne can be relatively common in both men and women, but several factors contribute to its development in women. Hormonal fluctuations, stress, certain medications, hair care products, and underlying skin conditions can cause scalp acne in women. Additionally, women may be more prone to hormonal fluctuations due to menstrual cycles, pregnancy, or menopause. These hormonal fluctuations could potentially influence the frequency and severity of scalp acne outbreaks.

What is folliculitis?

Folliculitis is an inflammation or infection of the hair follicles. It typically appears as small red or white bumps surrounded by redness. It sometimes also forms with a central area containing purulent fluid. In more severe cases, folliculitis can lead to larger, painful lesions or cysts. While sunburn itself doesn’t typically cause folliculitis directly, sunburned skin can be more vulnerable to infection and may contribute to the development of folliculitis. Similarly, excessive sweating can create a warm, moist environment that promotes bacterial or fungal growth, increasing the risk of folliculitis in affected areas.

What exactly is dandruff? 

Seborrheic dermatitis, more commonly known as “dandruff,” is a common scalp condition characterized by flaking of the skin on the scalp. It typically appears as a formation of visible white or yellowish flakes. Dandruff can be caused by Malassezia fungus. This fungus is naturally present on the scalp and feeds on the oils produced by hair follicles. An overgrowth of Malassezia can lead to irritation and inflammation of the scalp, resulting in greasy yellow or white scales. These scales are what we commonly refer to as dandruff. Dandruff is not a form of acne. 

Inflammation of the hair follicles does not typically cause dandruff. Instead, scalp flaking is the primary cause. Wearing hats can potentially worsen dandruff in some cases. Tight-fitting hats or helmets can trap heat and moisture against the scalp, creating an environment that is conducive to the growth of Malassezia fungus. 

What is acne mechanica?

Acne mechanica is a form of acne that is caused by friction, pressure, or heat against the skin. It typically occurs in areas where there is repeated physical contact or irritation, such as the face, shoulders, or back. Acne mechanica is not usually caused by the same factors as traditional acne (such as excess oil production and bacteria), but rather by external factors that disrupt the skin barrier and lead to inflammation. Acne mechanica can appear as small, red bumps, pustules, or papules on the skin. It may resemble traditional acne, but it arises primarily from physical irritation rather than hormonal imbalances or bacterial presence on the skin. Tight clothing, backpack straps, sports gear, and other sources of friction or pressure on the skin are typical triggers for this condition.

How common is scalp skin cancer caused by the sun? 

Skin cancer of the scalp caused by sun exposure is relatively common, particularly in individuals with fair skin or a history of extensive sun exposure. The most common type of skin cancers affecting the scalp are basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). While melanoma can develop on the scalp, it’s not as prevalent as non-melanoma skin cancers such as BCC and SCC in this area. Areas exposed to the sun like the face, neck, arms and legs are commonly associated with melanoma. However, it can occur anywhere on the body, including the scalp.When melanoma develops on the scalp, it may present as an irregularly shaped mole or lesion that is asymmetrical, has uneven borders, exhibits various colors, and may change in size or appearance over time. It’s very important to protect your scalp from the sun whether that is with sunscreen or wearing hats.

Cryotherapy Skincare 101 | Featured In Good Housekeeping

Dr. Mona Foad expands upon the insights she shared in her recent Good Housekeeping feature: Your Summer Beauty Survival Guide.

Cryotherapy | As Seen in Good Housekeeping | Dr. Mona Foad

What is cryotherapy skincare?

Cryotherapy skincare is a cold therapy that uses extremely cold temperatures to treat various conditions and improve skin health. There are multiple methods for cryotherapy: cryogenic chambers, cryo facials, cryo tools, or cryo masks. The cold temperature constricts blood vessels, reduces inflammation, tightens pores, and promotes collagen production, improving skin tone and texture. It’s often used for rejuvenation, reducing puffiness, and decreasing inflammation. 

What are the benefits of cryotherapy skincare, and how does it work?

There are several potential benefits regarding how cryotherapy works on the skin. When the skin is cooled it causes the blood vessels to constrict. This constriction reduces blood flow to the area, which can help decrease inflammation and swelling, which is particularly beneficial for conditions like acne or rosacea.  Cold temperatures also help to tighten the skin and reduce pores by contracting the skin temporarily, leading to a temporary tightening effect.  

While cold temperatures initially constrict blood vessels, blood flow increases once the skin warms up again, leading to improved circulation. This can contribute to healthier, more radiant-looking skin by delivering essential nutrients and oxygen to the skin cells. The cold temperature can also stimulate blood circulation and lymphatic drainage, which may help eliminate toxins and debris from the skin, resulting in a clearer, brighter complexion. 

What skin types is cryotherapy skincare best for?

Cryotherapy skincare can benefit various skin types, but its effectiveness may vary depending on skin conditions and concerns. Cryotherapy can benefit oily or acne-prone skin due to its ability to reduce inflammation, minimize pore size, and temporarily decrease oil production. Cold temperatures can help soothe acne-related inflammation and redness while providing a refreshing sensation. Cryomodulation is a newer treatment that targets disorders of inflammation such as rosacea and melasma. It downregulates inflammation by decreasing pro-inflammatory mediators and increasing anti-inflammatory mediators. Melanin transfer is impaired, and pigmentation is normalized to help even out skin tone.  Individuals with sensitive skin may also find cryotherapy skincare beneficial, mainly if the treatments are gentle and tailored to their specific needs. Cryotherapy can help calm sensitive skin by reducing redness, inflammation, and discomfort.  

Cryotherapy skincare can temporarily benefit combination skin, addressing various concerns such as oiliness, enlarged pores, and inflammation. However, it’s essential to customize cryotherapy treatments to target specific areas of concern without over-drying or irritating other parts of the face. Individuals with normal skin may also benefit from cryotherapy skincare, which includes improved circulation, brighter complexion, and temporary pore reduction. 

Is there anyone who shouldn’t use cryotherapy skincare?

While cryotherapy skincare can offer several benefits for many individuals, certain situations and conditions may not be suitable or advisable. For example, individuals with cryoglobulinemia, a rare condition characterized by abnormal proteins in the blood that thicken in cold temperatures, should avoid cryotherapy. Exposure to cold temperatures can trigger symptoms such as skin lesions, joint pain, and numbness in these individuals. Some people may have cold urticaria or cold-induced hives, a condition characterized by an allergic reaction to cold temperatures. Cryotherapy can exacerbate symptoms in individuals with this condition, leading to itching, swelling, and hives.

People with poor circulation, particularly in the extremities, may be at risk of complications from cryotherapy due to reduced blood flow. Cold temperatures can further constrict blood vessels, potentially exacerbating circulation issues and causing discomfort or tissue damage. Individuals with 

peripheral neuropathy or other nerve damage should avoid cryotherapy, as they may have decreased sensation and impaired ability to detect cold-related injuries. If you have open wounds or skin infections, you should avoid cryotherapy as the cold temperatures can slow down the healing process and increase the risk of infection. Individuals with heart conditions or who are pregnant should consult with their healthcare provider before undergoing cryotherapy. 

Do you think cryotherapy skincare is effective?

The effectiveness of cryotherapy skincare can vary depending on individual factors such as skin type, concerns, and the specific treatment protocol used. While some people may experience temporary improvements in skin texture, tone, and overall appearance, others may not see significant results.

Many people report positive outcomes immediately after undergoing cryotherapy treatments, including reduced inflammation, improved skin firmness, and a brighter complexion. However, we have limited research on the efficacy of cryotherapy skincare. We will need to conduct more studies to fully understand its benefits and mechanisms of action. There is not enough evidence to support the use of whole-body cryotherapy (WBC), and the American Academy of Dermatology warns against the use of this, citing reported injuries such as frostbite, frozen limbs, and rashes. Whole-body cryotherapy has been used to decrease muscle soreness and inflammation in athletes, but there is not enough evidence to support its use in the aesthetic world at this time, and the FDA has not cleared or approved WBC as a safe or effective treatment for any medical condition. 

What cryotherapy skincare products do you recommend?

When choosing cryotherapy skincare products, consider your skin type, concerns, and any specific ingredients or formulations that you prefer. I always recommend to my patients to patch test new products before using them extensively, especially if they have sensitive skin or allergies. 

Some popular cryotherapy skincare products that have received positive user reviews include Cryo facial tools, Cryo Masks, Cryo Serums and Moisturizers, and Cryo Facials. 

I like cryo facial tools, such as cryo rollers or cryo globes. These devices deliver the benefits of cold therapy to the skin in an at-home setting. Brands like StackedSkincare and ESARORA offer cryo facial tools that can massage the skin, reduce puffiness, and promote circulation. Results are temporary, but these can make your skin feel more refreshed.

Cryo masks are formulated with ingredients that provide a cooling effect on the skin, but they are not actually cryotherapy.  Ingredients such as menthol, peppermint, or eucalyptus can feel cooling and may help to soothe and refresh the skin, but these are not actual cryotherapy treatments. Always make sure to test products on non-facial skin to make sure you do not develop an allergic reaction. 

Some skincare brands offer serums and moisturizers that aim to deliver the benefits of cold therapy to the skin, but not the actual cold therapy. These products may contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, and botanical extracts to hydrate, soothe, and rejuvenate the skin.

Many spas and skincare clinics also offer cryo facial treatments. During a cryo facial, a trained esthetician uses a cryo wand or cryo probe to apply cold temperatures to the skin, providing various benefits such as reduced inflammation, improved circulation, and a brighter complexion. One option that we offer at our office is Glacial Rx. Glacial Rx is a medical-grade facial treatment that uses Cryomodulation to decrease inflammation and target pigment. This can help treat rosacea, melasma. We also use cryo facials to decrease inflammation after laser treatment.

Vitamin C Serums for Women Over 50 | Featured In First of Women

Dr. Mona Foad and Dr. Alexandra Bowles expand upon the insights they shared in their recent feature in First of Women: 8 Best Vitamin C Serums for Women Over 50: Brighten Skin, Smooth Wrinkles + More.

Best Vitamin C Serums for Women Over 50 Featuring First of Women, Dr Mona & Dr. Bowles

What are the benefits of a vitamin C serum?

Dr. Mona Foad

Vitamin C serum has numerous benefits for the skin and is a popular choice in many skincare routines. This powerful antioxidant helps protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals caused by environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. This protection can help prevent premature aging and damage to the skin. It’s also essential for collagen synthesis, a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin. By stimulating collagen production, vitamin C can help improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin C can also help brighten the complexion by reducing melanin production, the pigment responsible for dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Additionally, it has been shown to help improve skin hydration by enhancing the skin’s moisture barrier. This can result in softer, smoother skin with improved texture. 

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

There are plenty of benefits to using vitamin C on your skin. Not only does it help to hydrate and brighten the skin, but it also acts as an anti-inflammatory agent through its antioxidant capacity to soothe the skin and reduce puffiness. Vitamin C serums can help smooth fine lines by plumping and hydrating the under-eye area. Doing so helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.  While not a substitute for sunscreen, vitamin C can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreens by providing additional protection against UV damage. It helps to neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure and can reduce the risk of sunburn. Moreover, vitamin C is crucial in the skin’s natural healing process. It can help promote faster wound healing and reduce inflammation, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin and other skin conditions.

What to look for in a vitamin C serum

Dr. Mona Foad

Different forms of vitamin C are used in skincare products, each with its own benefits and stability. Some common forms include:

  • L-ascorbic acid (the most researched and potent form)
    • L-ascorbic acid is the pure form of vitamin C. Although it can be very effective, it can also be unstable and prone to oxidation. It can also cause irritation to the skin.
  • Ascorbyl palmitate
    • Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble form of vitamin C, like l-ascorbic acid. Although it is more stable and more gentle on the skin, it is not as effective as l-ascorbic acid.
  • Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
    • Ascorbyl palmitate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C that is more stable than L-ascorbic acid. It is less likely to irritate your skin.
  • Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
    • Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is also a more stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C.

Oil-soluble forms of vitamin C penetrate the skin better than L-ascorbic acid. I look for serums with stabilized forms of vitamin C such as Ascorbyl palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, or encapsulated formulas to maintain potency.

Another thing to consider is the concentration level. Serum vitamin C concentration can vary, typically ranging from 5% to 20%. Higher concentrations may provide more noticeable results but can also increase the risk of irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase if your skin tolerates it well.

Also necessary to consider is the pH level of Vitamin C. Vitamin C is most effective at a pH level below 3.5. Look for serums with a pH between 2.5 and 3.5 to ensure optimal absorption and stability of vitamin C.  Look for vitamin C serums that have ferulic acid and vitamin E which can help stabilize and increase penetration of whatever vitamin C you are using.  

Dr. Alexandra Bowles

When choosing a vitamin C serum, it’s important to consider several factors to ensure its effectiveness and compatibility with your skin. Look for serums that contain other beneficial ingredients like:

  • Hyaluronic acid: for hydration
  • Niacinamide: for brightening and anti-inflammatory effects
  • Antioxidants (such as vitamin E or ferulic acid): can enhance the effectiveness of vitamin C
  • Peptides: for collagen production

Consider your skin’s specific needs and look for serums that contain complementary ingredients. Consider your skin type and preferences when selecting a serum texture. Vitamin C serums come in various consistencies, including lightweight liquids, gel-like textures, and creamy formulations. Choose a texture that feels comfortable on your skin and integrates well into your skincare routine.

Tips for using a vitamin C serum:

Dr. Mona Foad

To maximize the benefits of a vitamin C serum and ensure its effectiveness, it’s important to use it correctly in your skincare routine. I like to use both Vitamin C and antioxidants in my morning skincare routine. Start by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and impurities. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel. If you use a toner in your skincare routine, apply it after cleansing and before applying the vitamin C serum. Toners can help balance the skin’s pH levels and prepare it to absorb the serum better. Dispense a pea-sized amount of the vitamin C serum onto your fingertips. Gently massage the serum onto your face and neck, using upward and outward strokes. Avoid the eye area unless the serum is specifically formulated for use around the eyes.

Give the serum a couple of minutes to fully absorb into your skin before proceeding with the next step in your skincare routine. This allows vitamin C to penetrate the skin and exert its effects. Apply your regular serums to address other concerns and a moisturizer to lock in hydration and further nourish the skin. Choose a moisturizer suitable for your skin type. Finish off your skincare routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen to further protect your skin. Incorporate the vitamin C serum into your skincare routine daily for optimal results. Consistency is vital to seeing improvements in your skin’s tone, texture, and overall appearance.

 Dr. Alexandra Bowles

It’s generally recommended to use vitamin C serum in the morning as part of your daytime skincare routine, as it can provide antioxidant protection against environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution. If you’re applying the vitamin C serum in your morning skincare routine, finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Vitamin C can enhance the effectiveness of sunscreen and provide additional protection against UV damage. If you prefer to use vitamin C at night, you can still reap its benefits for collagen production and skin repair. If you’re new to using vitamin C serum or have sensitive skin, start by using it every other day and gradually increase to daily use as your skin adjusts. Monitor your skin for any signs of irritation. If you experience redness, itching, or discomfort, reduce the frequency of use or discontinue use altogether.

What are three of the best antioxidant serums?

Best Overall: SkinMedica Vitamin C+E Complex

Dr. Mona: “I recommend SkinMedica’s Vitamin C+E Complex to my patients because it uses tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is a more stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C that can penetrate the skin better than a water-soluble form and causes less skin irritation. It improves the appearance of skin tone and texture by gradually releasing vitamins C and E throughout the day to help prevent free radical damage. It also helps to enhance skin brightness for a more youthful appearance.”

Best Splurge: SkinMedica Lumvive System

Dr. Mona: “Although Vitamin C is a fantastic antioxidant, there are many other antioxidants that have significant benefits. These can include protecting the skin, preventing environmental effects on aging skin, and helping to brighten and illuminate the skin. My favorite non-vitamin C antioxidant product is SkinMedica Lumivive System which is an antioxidant system that both helps to protect your skin during the day and repair the damage that was done while you sleep. This formulation of antioxidants is the next generation of ways to protect our skin and prevent the signs of aging.”

Best Drugstore: La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum 10%

Dr. Mona: “For a drugstore serum, I would recommend either La Roche-Posay’s Vitamin C Serum 10% or Pure Vitamin C Face Cream. These are both budget-friendly options that don’t compromise on quality. The 10% Pure Vitamin C Serum from La Roche Posay is good for acne-prone patients. I like that it is formulated with the water-soluble form of vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It also contains some salicylic acid to help with acne and exfoliation.  The Pure Vitamin C Face Cream is formulated with 5% vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. It also contains Madecassoside, a derivative of Centella Asiatica, which has healing properties.

“For a true vitamin C, I recommend Phloretin CF with Ferulic Acid. This highly potent and effective vitamin C serum combines 10% L-ascorbic acid with 2% phloretin and 0.5% ferulic acid for enhanced antioxidant protection and collagen synthesis. It helps brighten the skin, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and protect against environmental damage. Despite being pricier, its efficacy and proven results make it a favorite among skincare enthusiasts and professionals.”

Best Vitamin C with SPF: ColoreScience Total Protection Face Shield

Dr. Alexandra:”I always advise my patients to wear sunscreen to protect their skin’s appearance and health. I often recommend ColoreScience Total Protection Face Shield (Glow) as the best vitamin C serum with SPF. This antioxidant-rich mineral protector protects against UVA/UVB, pollution, blue light, and infrared radiation. The formula is hydrating while providing a pearlescent, illuminating skin glow.”

Best Vitamin C for Dry Skin: SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream

Dr. Alexandra: “For individuals with dry skin, I recommend SkinMedica Dermal Repair Cream as the best vitamin C product for dry skin. With an elegant cream base, this product visibly improves uneven tone, radiance, elasticity, and firmness without irritation. With vitamin C, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid, this product brightens the skin and improves sun damage while hydrating the skin.

Best Vitamin C for Sensitive Skin: SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF

As for a vitamin C serum for sensitive skin, SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF is a patented daytime vitamin C antioxidant face serum that provides advanced environmental protection and diminishes the appearance of fine lines and discoloration.”