Exfoliating your skin can be an amazing way to remove the dead skin cells your body naturally sheds. While exfoliation offers many benefits, when it is done right, there are some common mistakes you could be making. Let’s hear Dr. Alexandra Bowles’ thoughts and advice on exfoliating to achieve smooth and radiant skin in Parade’s article!
Exfoliating In The Shower
Exfoliating in the shower can be an easy way to take care of your skin and give it a healthy glow! It helps to get rid of dead skin cells, which smooths your skin but also allows fresh and healthy skin to shine. It can also boost circulation, support collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and uneven skin tone.
For someone who is prone to acne breakouts on your back or chest, regularly exfoliating helps keep pores clear and minimize the pesky bumps. It allows your skincare products to work better and be able to absorb more effectively! Exfoliating just a few times a week is all it takes to keep your skin soft, clear, and feeling its best!
How Often Should I Exfoliate?
A big factor in deciding how often you should be exfoliating is your skin type; people with normal, sensitive, or oily skin all require different frequencies of exfoliating.
Normal Skin:
For most people with normal skin, exfoliating two to three times a week is a great place to start and adjust as you need.
Oily Skin:
Those with oilier skin might benefit from more frequent exfoliation, and potentially even daily, if your skin handles it well.
Sensitive Skin:
If you have sensitive skin, once a week could be plenty for you, and in some cases it may be better to skip it altogether.
Factors like your age, hydration levels, or even the weather can affect how your skin can tolerate exfoliation. An important step in the exfoliation process is to moisturize right after! Moisturizing helps restore hydration and supports your skin’s natural barrier. Also, if you are someone who works out regularly, exfoliating afterward can help clear sweat, oil, and buildup that may clog pores. Overdoing your exfoliation can leave your skin red, dry, or irritated. It’s important to be aware of this, and if that happens to take a break and let your skin recover.
Common Exfoliating Mistakes
It is easy to make common mistakes when it comes to exfoliating without even realizing. Some of the biggest mistakes are:
Scrubbing too often or too hard: This can damage your skin barrier and leave you with redness or breakouts.
Not exfoliatingenough: It can cause buildup, dullness, and clogged pores.
Layering too many exfoliating products: This can overwhelm your skin, especially if you are already using retinol or acids.
Not using moisturizer or SPF: Skipping moisturizer or SPF right before sun exposure can leave your skin vulnerable and prone to irritation, especially after exfoliating!
Forgetting to clean your tools: Using dirty brushes, loofas, or exfoliating gloves can spread bacteria and lead to breakouts rather than clear skin.
Exfoliation is just one part of a healthy skincare routine! It is important to listen to your skin and adjust your routines as needed. You also must be patient; results won’t happen overnight! With consistent and gentle care, your skin will reward you with a beautiful glow. Remember, less is often more. Follow these tips to keep your skin balanced and healthy without irritating.
LED Light Therapy | As Featured In Marie Claire
LED light therapy can be a trusted option for improving skin health and overall wellness. Here’s what Dr. Mona Foad has to add on LED light therapy and how it affects the skin. The full article can be found in Marie Claire!
The Benefits
LED light therapy uses specific wavelengths to address concerns such as breakouts, redness, and signs of aging. These also support collagen production and skin healing. Red light specifically can boost cellular energy by helping your cells produce more ATP, which plays a role in how skin repairs and regenerates. Red light also helps alleviate inflammation, facilitates muscle recovery, and supports a more restful sleep by promoting a healthier circadian rhythm. While at-home tools can be helpful for daily maintenance, in-office treatments are going to offer deeper, more targeted results. LED light therapies are low-risk, non-invasive, and well-tolerated even for sensitive skin, which makes them a great option for most people. With consistent use, it can contribute to overall balance and wellness, producing calmer and clearer skin.
Are There Negatives?
There are some important things to keep in mind, even though LED light therapy is generally safe and well-tolerated. One challenge is that not all devices are created equally; specific wavelengths and quality of light used vary in the industry. Sometimes this means that at-home devices may not be delivering the most effective light for skin health. For people who are photosensitive or taking medications that increase light sensitivity, it’s important to consult with a provider before treatments.
At-home vs In-office
At-home LED light therapy can be a helpful addition to a skincare routine, especially for maintenance. However, they are typically not as powerful as the devices used in a dermatologist’s office. The professional-grade treatments penetrate deeper into the skin, allowing for better results. These treatments are more effective for killing acne-causing bacteria, enhancing healing after procedures, and creating more substantial collagen production. The in-office devices allow for more targeted results in fewer sessions because they are calibrated to deliver more precise wavelengths and intensities. For those looking to ease into light therapy, at-home tools can be beneficial between office visits as a lower-intensity option. It is always important to check with your dermatologist to make sure it’s the right type of device for your skin’s needs.
When Will You See Results?
Seeing results with LED light therapy can vary from person to person. Things such as skin type, the concern you’re treating, and how consistently you use the device all play a factor. Typically, people tend to see subtle improvements, such as calmer complexion or more radiance, within a few weeks of regular use. For bigger changes in the skin, like improved texture, reduced fine lines, or clearer skin, it can take about 8 to 12 weeks of consistency. LED therapy works by stimulating the skin’s natural healing, so it is a more gradual process. Being consistent with your routine and pairing it with a good skincare regimen will give the best, longer-lasting benefits. Combining LED therapies with professional treatments, such as micro needling or peels, might give enhanced results sooner. All-in-all, patience is key, and the payoff is healthier, more resilient skin.
At-Home Products
There are many good options on the market for at-home LED devices. It all comes down to what fits with your skin goals and lifestyle. Here are three trustworthy options that all offer differentiating results:
CurrentBody: Their popular full-face mask, which delivers a good balance of red and near-infrared light. This mask is ideal for overall skin rejuvenation and healing.
OmniLux: These have a more clinical-grade experience because it has higher light intensity. This can result in faster or more noticeable results, especially when targeting specific concerns like acne or aging.
Shark Beauty: This is an appealing option for a multifunctional device because it combines light therapy with other skincare features. However, the light intensity may not be as strong as other brands.
Just remember, LED light therapy is only one piece of the puzzle, and it works best when it’s combined with good daily skincare habits, sun protection, and a healthy lifestyle. Always choose devices and treatments that are backed by research, and consult with a dermatologist to make sure LED therapy meets your skin’s unique needs.
The Best Body Oils | As Featured In Vogue
Body oils can be an amazing option for hydrating the skin while also delivering many anti-aging perks. Hear what Dr. Alexandra Bowles has to add on the perks of body oils and even a list of her recommendations! You can find the full article about the 18 best body oils on Vogue.
Body Oil vs Lotion
Choosing between body oil and lotion mainly comes down to your skin’s unique needs. Oils are best for locking in moisture and strengthening the skin’s barrier. This makes oils ideal for very dry or mature skin that needs some extra nourishment. Lotions on the other hand, are water-based formulas. This provides lighter hydration and a more comfortable feel when in humid weather and for those prone to breakouts. Layering the two is always a great option, too! Starting with a lotion when you want quick, light moisture and sealing it in with body oil to keep skin soft and supple all day.
Which Oils Are the Best
Lightweight, nutrient-rich oils like jojoba, argan, and sweet almond are great options for everyday hydration. These three oils closely mimic the skin’s natural lipids and absorb without feeling greasy. Oils such as sunflower seed or avocado oil can boost barrier repair because they are rich in essential fatty acids. To help protect and nourish aging skin, as well as offer antioxidant support, argan or rosehip oil is a great option.
Dr.Bowles’ Recommendations
Neutrogena Body Oil: This is a classic for a reason; the fast-absorbing oil locks in moisture and leaves skin feeling soft and smooth. Its lightweight formula is simple and perfect for sensitive or easily irritated skin; it won’t weigh you down. This is best for daily use and great for barrier support.
Bio-oil Skincare Body Oil: This oil is great for smoothing scars, stretch marks, and uneven tone with its blend of vitamins and plant extracts. It’s great for anyone looking to support skin regeneration and barrier repair. As well as, gentle enough for everyday use and delivers noticeable improvements over time.
Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Body Oil Mist: This mist is convenient for hydrating skin on the go. It contains oat extract that soothes and calms irritated skin. It is great for sensitive skin since colloidal oatmeal is amazing for soothing redness and reinforcing the skin’s barrier.
MoroccanOil Dry Body Oil: The signature argan oil blend gives intense hydration and leaves a soft, luminous finish. It is not heavy and perfect for dry skin that needs nourishment. Argan oil is packed with vitamin E and fatty acids, which lock in moisture and support skin repair.
Sol de Janeiro Bum Bum Body Firmeza Oil: This oil combines guaraná extract and cupuaçu butter that smooths and firms the skin. It encourages skin elasticity and softness while having a tropical scent. It can even improve skin texture and firmness due to the caffeine in guaraná.
Supergoop! Glow Oil SPF 50: This has a rare combo of hydration, glow, and broad-spectrum sun protection all in one. It protects against UV damage while adding a healthy radiance, so you don’t have to sacrifice one or the other.
Avène Skin Care Oil: This oil is formulated with soothing thermal spring water and gentle emollients. These contents help calm sensitive or irritated skin and are great options for anyone prone to redness or dryness. The thermal spring water contains minerals and antioxidants that are great for supporting the skin barrier and reducing inflammation.
Estrogen Face Creams | As Featured In Women’s Health
Estrogen is an important part in keeping skin healthy and youthful as we age. When estrogen levels are stable, skin tends to look smoother, more hydrated, and more resilient to environmental stressors. As estrogen face creams become increasingly popular, listen to what Dr. Mona Foad has to add about them and how they should be used. You can find the full article in Women’s Health Magazine!
When Estrogen Declines
During perimenopause and menopause, the skin starts to lose some of its structure and moisture as estrogen levels drop. This all can lead to dryness, thinning, fine lines, and a decrease in skin firmness. As this changes, the skin can also look duller and more prone to irritation. When going through these natural changes, women often want to reevaluate their skincare routines to support their changing skin’s needs.
What Is Estriol?
Many of these topical creams are now using estriol, an ingredient gaining attention for its potential skin benefits. Estriol is a weaker form of estrogen; this low-dose hormone replacement therapy is typically used in low doses and may help improve skin hydration, elasticity, and tone. Some studies even suggest that it can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and increase collagen without the stronger effects of estrogen. Estriol is often seen as a safer alternative for skincare aimed at hormonal aging.
What Are The Concerns?
There are three types of estrogen: estriol, estradiol, and estrone, and all are important to approach thoughtfully. Estriol has not been shown in studies and trials to stimulate the uterus or breast cells, which makes it safer to use. While topical estriol is more gentle than other forms of estrogen, it still has hormonal activity. Even topical formulas can be absorbed into the bloodstream, especially with higher doses and prolonged use. That’s why it’s always a good idea to speak with your healthcare provider before starting any estrogen products. It’s particularly important to be cautious if you have a personal or family history of hormone-sensitive conditions or breast cancer. Even when the products are available over the counter, this ensures that it is tailored to specific needs.
Who Should Use It
Women who are experiencing visible skin changes related to estrogen loss, specifically in perimenopause or menopause, may consider using them. These estrogen creams should only be used under the guidance of a medical professional, as they are not for everyone. For the right patient, though, it can be a valuable part of their skincare routine, especially when combined with supportive products.
Anti-Aging Properties
Topical estriol and estrogen have promising research behind them for skin aging, especially for hydration, collagen support, and elasticity. While it can be a good option for some, it’s never a one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to skin and anti-aging. Other alternatives like retinoids, growth factors, peptides, antioxidants like vitamin C, and consistent sun protection are amazing for anti-aging. These options have all been extensively studied and can be great skincare additions for women who do not want to introduce hormones. It is important to create a personalized regimen that is safe and sustainable for your skin’s unique needs.
Aging skin is about more than just hormones; it is also about lifestyle. Things like hydration, sleep, nutrition, and skincare routines all can play into how a person’s skin ages. It is also important to be patient; results won’t happen overnight, but healthy, vibrant skin is possible at every stage of life.
Panoxyl: TikTok’s Viral Acne Banishing Spray | As Featured In Elite Daily
PanOxyl’s Acne Banishing Spray is going viral on TikTok right now as an amazing new product for dealing with body Acne. Listen to what insights Dr. Mona Foad has on this spray and if it is really worth the hype. Read the full article on Elite Daily!
The Main Ingredients
Benzoyl peroxide is one of the main active ingredients in PanOxyl’s Acne Banishing Spray. Benzoyl Peroxide is a well-studied anti-bacterial treatment for acne. It helps reduce acne-causing bacteria and can also help keep pores clear. Because it contains Benzoyl peroxide, this formula is specifically good to use for blemish control.
Spray vs. Topical
It has always been a challenge to treat hard-to-reach areas like the back. Over the last few years, there has been an increase in awareness of treating acne both on and off the face. A spray can be a very convenient option for someone dealing with breakouts on their back, shoulders, or chest. They can be especially helpful for individuals who are active and sweat frequently. There is not always someone at home to help apply a lotion or medication to the back, so sprays are a nice alternative.
Pros and Cons
One clear benefit is how easy it is to use, especially in hard-to-reach areas.
Ease of use often leads to better consistency as well, which is really important when treating acne.
Sometimes, benzoyl peroxide can dry out the skin or even bleach clothing and towels.
Dr. Mona’s Tips
Dr. Mona recommends letting the product dry completely before getting dressed. Also, following up with a gentle, non-comedogenic moisturizer can help prevent dryness. She also recommends that patients use it at night. It also might be helpful to launder whites together to avoid the bleaching effect.
These sprays are more specifically designed for the body. Typically, it’s only suggested to use sprays on the chest, back, and shoulders. Dr. Mona would not recommend applying them to the face unless the label specifically says it’s safe to do so. It is also important to avoid the eye area and any broken or irritated skin. Sprays like this one typically have more alcohol content and can be a bit more drying than other topical lotions.
It is also best to keep a gentle and minimal skin care routine when using benzoyl peroxide. A mild cleanser followed by a non-comedogenic moisturizer and daily SPF is best! Avoiding strong actives like AHAs, BHAs, or retinoids unless your skin is already used to them or you are working with a dermatologist. Having too many active ingredients at once can lead to irritation or dryness.
So does it actually work?
Yes! This type of product can definitely help with body acne. Remember, consistency is key!
The Benefits Of Rice Water Shampoo | As Featured In Glamour
Rice water shampoo has become quite popular recently, and for good reason. Rice water shampoo is made from the water left over from soaking or boiling rice, and has many benefits for hair health. Hear what insights Dr. Alexandra Bowles has to add and what tips she has on using rice water shampoo. The full list of product recommendations can be seen on Glamour!
The Benefits Of Rice Water Shampoo
Rice water shampoo is beneficial because it is great for strengthening and nourishing the hair. It is packed with nutrients like amino acids, vitamins, and minerals that do so. The starch from the rice water is also found to improve hair elasticity, reduce breakage, and promote a shinier, healthier appearance. Rice water also contains inositol, which helps repair damaged hair and reduce friction, making detangling much easier. This shampoo would be recommended for someone looking to add extra hydration or strength to their hair.
Overuse
Even though rice water shampoo has great benefits, it is important not to overuse it. Since it has a high starch content, too much rice water can make hair feel stiff or weighed down. For most people, it is best to use 1 to 2 times a week, depending on hair type and condition. For example, with more dry or damaged hair, it might be best to start with a lower frequency and adjust as needed. It’s all about balance. Rice water is a great addition, but should not replace regular hair care products.
Side Effects
Rice water is generally safe for most people and hair types. However, just like with any product, it’s important to pay attention to how your hair responds. For sensitive scalps, it may cause mild irritation or dryness, especially if it’s overused. A patch test first is always a great place to start to make sure there aren’t any adverse reactions to the product. Cutting back frequency or balancing with a hydrating conditioner are great ways to adjust the routine to your hair’s needs.
Rice Water Shampoo Recommendation
Dr. Bowles would recommend As I Am Rice Water Shampoo as a great option! This product uses forbidden black rice, a staple in Chinese and Asian medicine. It helps to promote hair growth and protect the hair and scalp. Also, to help with hair strength, it incorporates saw palmetto. This affordable option is a great addition to a hair care routine!
How to Use Bath Bombs | As Featured In Byrdie
Bath bombs can add a luxurious effect to your baths, while offering some skin benefits of their own. While they help create the perfect bath, what more should we know about what they do to the skin? Hear Dr. Alexandra Bowles’ insights on what steps we should be taking for the skin after a bath bomb. Read the full article in Byrdie!
How Long Should We Be in the Tub?
Staying in the bathtub for too long starts to strip away your skin’s natural oils and leaves the barrier feeling dry. To avoid this, try to limit your bath to around 10-15 minutes. This leaves just enough time to enjoy the fizz and fragrance without it overly-drying your skin. If you want to stay in longer, top the bath with cooler water to keep things gentle for your skin. This adjustment can help your skin stay soft and hydrated for longer after you towel off.
Balancing Bath Water’s pH
Our skin has a delicate pH that tap water isn’t always perfectly balanced for. This can affect how well the natural skin barrier holds up. Mixing in a tablespoon of baking soda will gently neutralize the water and help your skin retain its natural acidity! This not only maximizes the moisturizing benefits of your bath bomb’s oils and butters, but also reduces the chances of post-bath tightness or sensitivity.
A Quick Rinse
After your bath, taking a quick rinse in lukewarm water can help wash away any lingering dyes, fragrances, or shimmer that can sit on the skin and cause irritation. This is a step that Dr. Bowles always recommends, especially if you’re prone to breakouts or clogged pores on your chest, back, or arms. It is like a post-soak reset, which is refreshing and kind to your skin!
How to Improve Scalp Hydration | As Seen in Glamour
A dry scalp isn’t just uncomfortable, it’s often your skin’s way of asking for help. Whether it’s due to your environment, hair care routine, or skin barrier health, learning how to properly keep your scalp hydrated can make a world of difference in both comfort and hair health. Learn more from Dr. Alexandra Bowles in Glamour’s article.
How can you hydrate your scalp?
A dry scalp is often a sign that your skin barrier needs a little extra support. Luckily, there are several simple steps that can make a big difference. I usually recommend starting with a gentle, hydrating shampoo. Look for one with calming ingredients like aloe, glycerin, or oat extract to help soothe irritation while moisturizing the scalp. Avoid washing with hot water, as it can strip your scalp of its natural oils. Instead, opt for lukewarm water to cleanse effectively without over-drying.
Scalp exfoliation is another great step. Massaging with your fingertips or using a soft brush once or twice a week can help remove dead skin so hydrating treatments can absorb more deeply. I also love scalp masks or serums with nourishing oils like jojoba or squalane. They provide targeted moisture right where it’s needed most. And don’t forget internal hydration: drinking plenty of water and eating water-rich foods like cucumbers and watermelon can also help support scalp health from the inside out.
How do you get rid of dry scalp?
Getting rid of a dry scalp begins with taking a closer look at your hair care routine. I always tell my patients to pay attention to how their scalp feels between washes. If you’re washing too often or not often enough, it can throw off the scalp’s natural balance. Using a hydrating scalp treatment a few times a week can make a big difference, especially when it includes ingredients like hyaluronic acid for moisture and niacinamide to help restore a healthy skin barrier. Be sure to choose shampoos that are sulfate-free and gentle, so they cleanse without stripping the scalp of its natural oils. And while hot showers may feel comforting, washing with lukewarm water helps prevent further dryness or irritation.
It’s also important to consider your environment and overall wellness, such as protecting your scalp from cold, dry air with a breathable hat and supporting hydration from within by drinking plenty of water and incorporating skin-friendly nutrients like omega-3s and vitamins A, B, and C into your diet.
Does conditioner moisturize your scalp?
Conditioner is primarily designed to hydrate and soften the hair shaft, not the scalp itself. That said, some conditioners with nourishing ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, or aloe can provide light moisture to the scalp. However, it’s important to choose formulas that are non-comedogenic and free of heavy silicones or fragrances, especially if you’re prone to scalp buildup or sensitivity. I usually recommend focusing conditioner on the mid-lengths and ends of the hair. If the scalp is feeling particularly dry, a light, scalp-safe conditioner can offer temporary relief. Just be sure to rinse thoroughly and follow with a targeted scalp treatment if deeper hydration is needed.
How do dermatologists moisturize their scalps?
As dermatologists, we look for evidence-based solutions that address both the cause and the symptoms of dryness. Depending on what’s going on, we may recommend treatments like medicated shampoos, topical corticosteroids, or hydrating serums. This may depend on whether it’s seasonal dryness, eczema, or product-related irritation. For more routine dryness, I often suggest lightweight scalp oils or leave-in treatments that restore moisture without clogging follicles. We also focus on preserving the scalp’s barrier by avoiding harsh products and encouraging regular, gentle exfoliation. Every scalp is different, so our approach is always tailored to the patient’s specific needs and skin type.
How can you moisturize the scalp naturally?
There are several gentle, natural ways to support scalp moisture that I often recommend to patients who prefer a more holistic approach. Natural oils, such as jojoba, coconut, or argan, can be massaged into the scalp to help lock in hydration. Just make sure to patch-test first and wash thoroughly to avoid buildup. Aloe vera is another great option, especially for soothing dry, irritated areas. Staying well-hydrated and eating a diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids, zinc, and vitamins A and E can also support scalp health from the inside out. And don’t forget: consistency is key. Natural remedies work best when used regularly and paired with a gentle, non-stripping haircare routine.
What causes a dry or irritated scalp?
A dry or irritated scalp can come from a number of different sources, and often, it’s a mix of factors working together. Things like over-washing, product buildup, or using shampoos that are too harsh can strip away the scalp’s natural oils and throw off its balance. Cold weather, indoor heating, or excessive sun exposure can also cause moisture loss from the scalp, leaving it dry and uncomfortable. I also remind my patients that hydration and nutrition play a role. When your body’s dehydrated or missing key nutrients, your scalp can be one of the first places it shows. Some people are simply more prone to dryness due to genetic factors or underlying conditions such as eczema or psoriasis. If the dryness persists or becomes uncomfortable, it’s a good idea to see a board-certified dermatologist who can help pinpoint the cause and guide you toward the right treatment.
Does hair texture and type impact scalp dryness?
Yes, your hair texture and type can absolutely influence how dry your scalp feels. For example, curly and coily hair types tend to be drier overall because natural oils from the scalp have a harder time traveling down the hair shaft. People with finer or straighter hair may notice dryness more quickly if they’re over-washing or using products that strip the scalp. I always remind patients that their hair and scalp require a routine tailored to their unique biology. There’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Paying attention to how your scalp feels between washes is a helpful first step.
Do certain products impact scalp dryness?
Yes, and sometimes it’s the products we use every day that quietly contribute to scalp issues. Harsh shampoos with sulfates, heavy dry shampoos, or alcohol-based styling products can strip the scalp of its natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation. Even using the wrong shampoo for your hair type can throw off your scalp’s balance. I encourage patients to read labels and look for words like “hydrating,” “soothing,” or “moisture-replenishing.” A gentle, balanced product can make a big difference in how your scalp feels.
What products do you recommend for helping with hydration?
There are several products I often recommend for hydrating the scalp. Look for serums or treatments that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, or niacinamide. These support both moisture and a healthy scalp barrier. Brands like Nécessaire ($45), Philip Kingsley Density Preserving Serum ($67), and Living Proof Dry Scalp Treatment ($38) all offer well-formulated scalp treatments that are gentle yet effective. If you’re experiencing ongoing dryness, a scalp-specific mask like Yobee Restorative Scalp Mask ($42) or SheaMoisture Pre-Wash Masque ($10), used once a week, can also help rebalance things. And as always, choosing a moisturizing shampoo without sulfates is a great foundation for healthy scalp care.
How Braids Can Affect Hair and Scalp Health | As Seen in Byrdie
While braids can be a great protective styling option, it’s important to understand how they can impact the health of your hair and scalp. Learn how to take extra precautions to avoid any damage to your scalp or hair with Dr. Alexandra Bowles in Byrdie’s article.
Watch out for flaking or itching:
While some mild flaking can be expected, persistent itching or visible flakes under your braids might be a sign of scalp irritation or even contact dermatitis. If you notice these signs, don’t ignore them. I recommend using a gentle, alcohol-free shampoo or even a medicated shampoo in a diluted form to spot-treat the area. Listening to your scalp early on helps prevent things from progressing into full-blown inflammation or infection. Speak to your dermatologist to see if this is the right treatment for you!
Don’t skip nighttime scalp protection:
We often focus on protecting the braids themselves at night, but your scalp needs love, too. Cotton pillowcases can pull moisture from your scalp and even cause friction that irritates already-stressed areas. I suggest wearing a silk or satin scarf or bonnet and, if possible, using a silk pillowcase for extra protection. If your scalp feels dry before bed, a quick mist of a lightweight, hydrating scalp tonic can work wonders overnight.
Be gentle during takedown:
How you remove your braids matters just as much as how you install them. Too many people rush the takedown process, which can lead to unnecessary breakage and even scalp irritation. I always advise patients to detangle gently as they go, using a detangling spray or conditioner to soften buildup, and never force out a tangle. Taking your time during removal gives your hair and scalp a much-needed reset and prevents long-term damage.
Keep an eye on the nape of your neck:
The nape area is often overlooked, but it’s actually one of the most sensitive spots on your scalp. Braids that are too heavy or too tight in this area can lead to breakage. Over time, this could even result in small bald patches. If you’re getting longer braids or twists, I recommend asking your stylist to use less tension. Especially on the nape, make sure to avoid loading with extra weight. Protecting this zone can make a big difference in the overall health of your hair.
Give your scalp a break:
Wearing tight braids or other hairstyles that are tightly pulled back for long periods of time can actually damage the hair follicles and lead to a condition known as traction alopecia. I counsel patients to try to stick to loose braid styles or at least taking a break in-between braid hairstyles to give your scalp time to recover. If you notice your hairline thinning or receding, this could be from the braids pulling on scalp and can cause permanent hair loss.
What are Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA)? | As Seen in Byrdie
If you’re looking for a gentle way to exfoliate, hydrate, and strengthen your skin, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) might be what your skincare routine is missing! Learn all about them with Dr. Alexandra Bowles in Byrdie’s recent article.
What is PHA?
Polyhydroxy acids, or PHAs, are often described as the “entry-level” chemical exfoliant, and for good reason. Their larger molecular size means they sit closer to the surface of the skin. This allows them to gently loosen dead skin cells without penetrating too deeply or causing irritation. What’s exciting about PHAs is that they’re not just exfoliators. They also act as antioxidants and hydrators, making them a triple win for anyone looking to brighten and smooth their skin without the sting. If you’ve struggled with AHAs or BHAs in the past, PHAs might be the ideal way to experience the benefits of chemical exfoliation more comfortably.
What are some benefits of PHA?
One of the more underrated benefits of PHAs is their ability to support the skin’s natural barrier. While some acids can leave skin feeling stripped or overly tight, PHAs help maintain hydration levels and actually promote a stronger, healthier skin barrier over time. They also work well alongside calming ingredients, which makes them a fantastic option for those managing redness, rosacea, or even eczema. And because they exfoliate without increasing sun sensitivity as much as AHAs, PHAs can be more forgiving for year-round use, though sunscreen is still a must!
What’s the difference between AHA, BHA, and PHA?
AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid, exfoliate the skin’s surface and are great for dullness and uneven tone, but can be irritating. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into pores, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. PHAs are larger in molecular size, so they stay on the surface and work more gently. This makes them perfect for sensitive skin or those new to acids. PHAs also have added moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, which AHAs and BHAs don’t typically offer. Overall, PHAs are more forgiving. They hydrate as they exfoliate and pair well with calming or hydrating ingredients, making them an easy choice for layered routines.
Are there any side effects?
The beauty of PHAs is that they’re designed to minimize irritation. While other acids might cause redness or tingling, PHAs are usually well-tolerated, even by those with rosacea or eczema. That said, every skin type is unique, so I always recommend introducing them slowly and watching for any signs of sensitivity.Even though PHAs are gentle, more isn’t always better. Using them too frequently, especially alongside other exfoliants, can lead to a compromised skin barrier. If your skin starts to feel tight or begins to peel, take a break and focus on hydration and barrier repair.
One lesser-known point: even gentle acids like PHAs can interact with other actives. Using them right before or after retinoids or vitamin C may increase your chances of irritation. If you’re combining powerful ingredients, it’s best to alternate nights or seek advice from your dermatologist.
Is it right for my skin?
PHAs are one of the most skin-friendly exfoliants out there, especially for those with sensitive or compromised skin. Their gentle nature makes them a great choice for people dealing with conditions like rosacea, eczema, or post-procedure recovery. Still, I always advise patch testing first and avoiding use on areas with broken or inflamed skin. If you’re acne-prone, PHAs may not clear clogged pores as effectively as BHAs. But, they can still help improve skin texture and tone without the risk of irritation. The key is to start slow and monitor how your skin feels over time.
How do I use this in my routine?
One of the best things about PHAs is how simple they are to incorporate into your routine. I often recommend starting with a leave-on product, like a serum or hydrating toner, used two to three times a week. Because PHAs are so gentle, many people can gradually increase usage based on how their skin responds. They also layer beautifully with most skincare ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and even some retinoids. If you’re using a physical exfoliant or other active ingredients, though, try to space them out to avoid over-exfoliating.