Homemade treatments can be a fun and affordable way to care for your skin, when done right. From nourishing face masks to natural exfoliants, DIY skincare offers a wide range of benefits using ingredients you may already have at home. Hear Dr. Alexandra Bowles’ thoughts on certain ingredients and methods in Byrdie’s article.

 

What to Know Before You Try DIY Skincare: 

Try a Test Patch

Before applying any DIY treatment, I always recommend starting with a patch test. By applying a small amount of the product to an inconspicuous area (such as your jawline or wrist), you can check for any allergic reactions or irritation before applying it more broadly. This step is crucial to avoid any unexpected issues.

Be Mindful of the Ingredients You’re Using

While natural ingredients are often perceived as safe, they can still be harsh on your skin. Ingredients like lemon juice or baking soda, for example, may sound gentle but can irritate your skin, especially with regular use. From my experience, it’s essential to consider your skin’s needs and sensitivities before using any ingredient to avoid potential harm.

Don’t Overdo It

More isn’t always better when it comes to skincare. Overusing DIY treatments, particularly exfoliants or masks, can damage your skin’s protective barrier, leading to irritation and breakouts. I always suggest limiting their use to once or twice a week, depending on your skin’s condition, to avoid overloading it.

Consider Your Skin Type

Your skin type plays a huge role in determining which DIY treatments will work best. For example, if you have oily skin, clay masks can help absorb excess oil, leaving your skin feeling fresh. For dry or sensitive skin, however, hydrating masks with ingredients like honey or aloe vera are gentler and won’t strip your skin’s moisture, which is essential for maintaining a healthy glow.

Consistency Is Key

When using DIY treatments, patience is necessary. Results typically take time, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t notice immediate improvements. With consistent use of proper skincare, your skin will gradually improve. I always remind my patients that skincare is a marathon, not a sprint.

DIY Doesn’t Replace Professional Care

Although DIY skincare treatments can be beneficial, they shouldn’t replace professional skincare or dermatological advice. For persistent skin issues like acne, eczema, or rosacea, I strongly advise consulting with a dermatologist for a tailored treatment plan that addresses your unique needs.

Don’t Forget Sunscreen

Even if you’re using natural ingredients, don’t forget to protect your skin with sunscreen. Some ingredients, like citrus or honey, can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. For optimal protection, make sure you apply SPF 30 or higher, especially if you’re using DIY treatments regularly.

Explore the science behind common DIY skincare ingredients and methods, and learn how to use them effectively and safely!

Avocado: Avocados are packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin E, and antioxidants, making them a powerhouse for skin hydration and nourishment. These nutrients help to improve skin elasticity, reduce dryness, and give your skin a healthy, plump appearance. I’ve found that avocados are especially beneficial for dry, normal, or mature skin types, providing intense moisture.

Brown Sugar: Brown sugar is a gentle, natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells, revealing smoother and brighter skin. While it can improve skin texture, it may be too abrasive for those with sensitive or dry skin, so I always recommend exfoliating gently and testing first.

Turmeric and Yogurt: Turmeric is known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, helping to soothe and calm the skin. When mixed with yogurt, it hydrates and exfoliates gently, making it an ideal choice for dry or aging skin in need of extra brightness and balance.

Milk: Milk contains lactic acid, a mild exfoliant that gently removes dead skin cells while adding moisture to the skin. It’s particularly effective for dry skin, as it helps to refresh and smooth the complexion, leaving skin soft and glowing.

Coconut Oil and Cocoa Butter: Coconut oil is deeply hydrating, while cocoa butter is rich in fatty acids and antioxidants. Together, these ingredients lock in moisture and leave the skin feeling smooth and nourished. However, I advise those with oily or acne-prone skin to be cautious, as coconut oil may clog pores, potentially leading to breakouts.

Dark Chocolate: Dark chocolate is packed with antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental damage. Additionally, its hydrating properties make it a great option for dry skin that needs some extra nourishment. Its rich texture helps to replenish moisture, leaving the skin looking smooth and radiant.

Strawberry: Strawberries contain salicylic acid, a natural exfoliant that clears pores and smooths skin. They’re beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin, preventing breakouts while brightening the complexion due to their high vitamin C content.

Honey: Honey is a natural humectant, which means it draws moisture into the skin and helps retain hydration. It also has antibacterial properties, making it ideal for acne-prone skin. Honey works to soothe and hydrate the skin, promoting a healthy, soft texture.

Aloe Vera and Cucumber: Aloe vera is well-known for its soothing and hydrating qualities, making it perfect for sensitive or irritated skin. When combined with cucumber, these two calm the skin and reduce puffiness, making it ideal for a refreshing and cooling treatment.

Oatmeal: Oatmeal is a gentle exfoliant that helps absorb excess oil while soothing inflamed or irritated skin. It’s perfect for sensitive or acne-prone skin, as it provides a non-abrasive way to refresh and maintain a healthy complexion without irritation.

Sugar or Salt Scrubs: Salt and sugar scrubs are effective exfoliants that remove dead skin cells and enhance skin texture. Sugar is generally gentler than salt, making it a better choice for the face. However, both can be too harsh for sensitive skin, so patch testing is crucial before use.

Paraffin Wax Treatment for Hands: Paraffin wax is an excellent treatment for dry, cracked hands, providing intense moisture and leaving the skin feeling soft and supple. I recommend patients with cracked and dry skin do this three times weekly when they are flared or during winter months to create a form of seal on their hands and lock in moisture. You can do this on heels as well! 

Foot Scrub for Dry, Cracked Heels: A foot scrub is a great way to tackle dry, cracked heels. It exfoliates and softens tough skin, helping to maintain smooth, healthy-looking feet, particularly during the warmer months when feet are more exposed.

 

PRP, or Platelet-Rich Plasma, is a concentration of healing platelets derived from your own blood. It’s commonly used in both medical and cosmetic treatments to promote skin regeneration, and has been found to have even better results when combined with procedures like microneedling. Hear Dr. Alexandra Bowles’ opinion on this dual treatment in MedEsthetics’ article on Women’s Health.

What is PRP?

PRP stands for Platelet-Rich Plasma. It’s a concentration of platelets derived from your own blood and used in various medical and cosmetic treatments.

How does PRP help improve skin conditions like acne scars or aging skin when combined with microneedling?

Platelets are rich in growth factors, which are proteins that play an important role in skin repair and regeneration. When injected into the skin, PRP stimulates the body’s response to injury and promotes healing thereby promoting collagen production and improving skin texture and tone. PRP also stimulates fibroblasts  which are also responsible for collagen production. Improving collagen production helps with overall skin texture and tone.

Are there any new ways to use PRP with microneedling in dermatology?

I like to apply PRP evenly throughout the procedure so the PRP gets micro needled into the skin. Then I save a little behind to cover the entire face afterwards. This helps with improving downtime as well!

Can you share a case of great results with PRP and microneedling being used together?

I have many patients who are thrilled with their PRP results. Recently, I had a 44 year old woman who came to address skin texture and tone. After two microneedling with PRP sessions including injectable PRP under the eyes, her skin was softened and smoothed dramatically! 

 

What would you do for glowing skin? The latest skincare trend has people slathering beef tallow—rendered cow fat—on their faces. Hear what Dr. Alexandra Bowles has to say about this in NBC Select’s article exploring this new trend.

What is beef tallow?

It’s simply the fat that comes from cows. People have used it for centuries in many cultures, both for cooking and as a skincare ingredient. Essentially, they heat fat to remove impurities, leaving behind a smooth and nourishing substance. It contains fatty acids and vitamins, like A, D, E, and K.

Why might applying beef tallow to your face/skin help?

People believe that beef tallow can be beneficial because it contains the same fatty acids that your skin naturally has. These fatty acids, like oleic acid, help lock moisture into your skin, keeping it hydrated. It also contains vitamins A and E, which can potentially help with skin regeneration, reducing scarring, and soothing irritated skin. That being said, similar ingredients can be found in other moisturizers or skincare products that are not animal-derived or oily. For this reason, I would recommend other moisturizer formulas over those that contain beef tallow. 

Is there any reason you should not apply beef tallow to your skin?

Beef tallow may work well for some people, but it isn’t suitable for all skin types. If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, it might not be the best choice. Because it’s a heavier moisturizer, it can clog pores for people with oily skin, potentially causing breakouts. Also, if you have any allergies to beef or animal products, it’s best to avoid it. I always recommend patch-testing on a small area first to see how your skin reacts.

If you want to try using beef tallow on your skin, how should you do it?

If you’re really interested in trying it, start slowly. Warm a small amount in your hands, then gently apply it to clean, slightly damp skin. You can use it as an overnight treatment, especially for dry or irritated areas. If you’re worried it’s too heavy, mix it with a lighter moisturizer to balance the texture. I would also recommend choosing a brand or source that conducts thorough testing on their products to reduce the risk of contamination, as it is an animal-derived product.

Is there any skin type that should avoid using beef tallow on the skin?

Those with oily or acne-prone skin should be careful with beef tallow, as it could clog pores and lead to breakouts. If you have sensitive skin, it’s also a good idea to proceed with caution, as some people may react to animal-based products. If you’re unsure, it’s always a good idea to check in with your dermatologist before introducing a new product.

 

Are wrinkle patches a good alternative for someone hesitant about Botox or fillers?

Wrinkle patches can be a great option if you’re not ready for Botox or fillers, but they work differently. They help smooth fine lines temporarily by keeping the skin in place and locking in moisture, which can make wrinkles look softer. Some even have ingredients like peptides or hyaluronic acid to plump the skin. But unlike Botox, which relaxes the muscles that cause wrinkles, patches don’t prevent deeper lines from forming. They’re more of a short-term fix rather than a long-term solution.

Can using wrinkle patches too often actually weaken the skin’s elasticity over time?

Wrinkle patches won’t necessarily weaken the skin’s elasticity over time, but it depends on how you use them. If they have a strong adhesive and you’re pulling them off too aggressively, that could irritate the skin or cause unnecessary stress. Skin elasticity is mostly influenced by collagen and hydration, so using gentle, hydrating skincare alongside patches is important. As long as you’re not overdoing it or tugging at your skin too much, patches shouldn’t cause any major issues. 

What are your all-time favorite wrinkle patches and why? 

As a dermatologist, I get asked about wrinkle patches three to four times a week! I think they’re great and can definitely be beneficial for some patients. While wrinkle patches are not a substitute for Botox, they can help smooth facial lines, particularly sleep lines. Sleep lines form when the skin folds over itself due to certain sleeping positions, often appearing on the forehead and cheeks of side or stomach sleepers. While Botox can help, it’s just as important to prevent the skin from folding in the first place. 

Personally, my favorite is the Serum Patch from Frownies. They contain ingredients like aloe, collagen, vitamin E, caffeine, and more. Together, they can help temporarily tighten, smooth, and plump the skin. They do contain Chamomile Flower Extract and Macadamia Nut Oil, though, which may cause irritation for some patients with more sensitive or reactive skin.

I would also recommend the brand ROC. They infuse their deep wrinkle patches with retinol, peptides, and hyaluronic acid.I like the addition of retinol for patients who don’t have super sensitive skin!

Are you curious about the latest and greatest cosmetic technologies? Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her picks for the best new technologies, how they work, and the amazing results they provide! For more information, listen to the full Dermasphere podcast interview.

What is your new favorite cosmetic technology that you think more people should know about?

Ellacor. Ellacor is a minimally invasive technique to improve fine lines and wrinkles, approved for around the mouth. The way it works is by micro coring. Think of it as tiny little punch biopsies that core out columns of skin. This stimulates the body’s natural response to injury, which builds collagen and improves fine lines and wrinkles and gives a lifted appearance. There is minimal downtime and most people are back to normal in around 2 weeks. But not everyone heals the same way, especially depending on your skin type.

It’s been a very popular procedure because we’re one of the only offices in the state offer it and have people coming from all over the country to try it. Recently, we’ve noticed it helps in other parts of medicine like foreign body granulomas from things like Sculptra or acne scarring. It can even help crepey skin on the neck, arms, tops of legs and knees.

What have your patients’ results been like after the procedure?

We have had great results when it comes to both scarring and tissue laxity. I haven’t had any patients with long term issues with scarring or anything else from the procedure. One of my first patients of this treatments says it’s been one of the most efficacious treatments she’s done, and she’s done every laser under the sun. Because it’s not heat based, it doesn’t cause discomfort later on that people tend to complain about. She said she felt totally comfortable after the treatment, versus other treatments which have made her very swollen and uncomfortable. People are loving to so much they’re coming back for 2nd and 3rd treatments.

Could this be used to help scarred areas from other skin issues?

I think this would be amazing to look further into and definitely could be possible. I think there is so much potential for how Ellacor can help, we just haven’t figured out all the ways yet.

Is there a variety of treatment styles for Ellacor? 

You can do the treatment on the skin in any order you’d like. I’ve been testing different methods for what works best. Using it for stretch marks is a great example of different treatment styles because the movement pattern is different than on the face. We’ve done this on the the back of the arms and legs and have seen great improvements. One of the only issues patients have encountered is that if you are prone to hyperpigmentation, your skin may take 4-6 weeks to look completely healed instead of the standard two weeks.  This can also depend on the intensity of the treatment. But good news is that studies are showing the increased intensity of the treatment doesn’t necessarily equate to a better result.

What is the device you use most in your practice?

What I use all day, everyday is the BroadBand Light, also known as a BBL Hero. We use this for acne and have had fantastic results. The patients love to low to no downtime and how they come home with their skin glowing. Their pores are decreased without having to do a full resurfacing or fractionally ablative device.

How does the BroadBand Light technology work?

It uses Hero passes, which stands for high energy rapid output. With the first pass, you’re laying down a lot of heat and energy. Depending on the patient, you choose various wave lengths. For example, for somebody with a of redness, I’ll chose the 560 wave length because we know this absorbs hemoglobin, so it targets redness. Then I’ll lay down a base pass of a 560 heat, basically prepping the skin for corrective passes. This is where I increase the energy and decrease the pulse width. I stamp higher energy to try to target things like vessels and angiomas, diffuse rosacea or even bruises.

After, I usually follow up with a pigment setting, which is a different wavelength. I use the 515 wavelength which absorbs melanin, so is good for targeting pigment, freckles, and antigenes. The last we pass we do what we call a photo finish. That’s with a 640 wavelength and is a little deeper, so you get a little bit more collagen production. With this whole treatment, you get improvement in redness, pigment, and fine lines.

With the acne protocol treatment, that is a different wavelength. It’s a 420 wavelength and is known to help kill the bacteria that causes acnes. It’s a great option for those who don’t want to go on Accutane® or have lots of inflammatory redness from acne.

 

Recently, high frequency wands have gained popularity and Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her opinion on the effectiveness of them and best practices when using. Read Town & Country’s article for more recommendations.

The theory of using electrical currents to help treat acne, tighten skin and build collagen has been around for years. When using these devices, a low electrical current is applied to the skin via a glass electrode. It’s filled with either argon gas, which targets acne and oil production, or neon gas which helps to improve blood flow and build collagen. 

What should I consider when choosing a high frequency wand?

When deciding on a device, I would first decide what you are trying to address. Is it acne, skin tone, or just overall skin rejuvenation? Devices also can come with a myriad of attachments so look to see what attachments different brands have. A mushroom wand is good for treating broader areas such as cheeks, forehead and jawline. A tongue wand serves sensitive areas such as under eyes. For zapping individual break outs, a spot wand is great. The Y shape wand is for the curved contours of the neck and the rod wand is good for larger body areas such as legs. The comb wand stimulates hair and helps address scalp conditions like seborrheic dermatitis or dandruff

Can you share some recommendations? What differs between wands?

• Stacked Skincare High Frequency Acne Device:
  • This device can treat acne because it uses Argon gas, but can also help with dandruff. Because it lacks anti-aging benefits, the device comes with limited attachments.
• Pure Daily Care NuDerma Professional Skin Therapy Wand:
  • Unlike the StackedSkincare High Frequency Acne Device, this device has both Argon and neon gas so can have a broader range of benefits, but has limited attachments so may be more limiting in use.
• Skin Gym Skin Gym High Frequency Wand:
  • This has both argon and neon gases so has a broad range of benefits, including multiple attachments so you can treat both on and off face. You have to switch between the neon and argon wands to customize your treatments. 
• Pure Daily Care NuDerma Clinical Skin Therapy Wand:
  • This has all the advantages of the Pure Daily Care NuDerma Professional Skin Therapy Wand but because the wands have neon and argon gases combined, you do not need to switch out between wands.