If you’re looking for a gentle way to exfoliate, hydrate, and strengthen your skin, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) might be what your skincare routine is missing! Learn all about them with Dr. Alexandra Bowles in Byrdie’s recent article.

What is PHA?

Polyhydroxy acids, or PHAs, are often described as the “entry-level” chemical exfoliant, and for good reason. Their larger molecular size means they sit closer to the surface of the skin. This allows them to gently loosen dead skin cells without penetrating too deeply or causing irritation. What’s exciting about PHAs is that they’re not just exfoliators. They also act as antioxidants and hydrators, making them a triple win for anyone looking to brighten and smooth their skin without the sting. If you’ve struggled with AHAs or BHAs in the past, PHAs might be the ideal way to experience the benefits of chemical exfoliation more comfortably.

What are some benefits of PHA?

One of the more underrated benefits of PHAs is their ability to support the skin’s natural barrier. While some acids can leave skin feeling stripped or overly tight, PHAs help maintain hydration levels and actually promote a stronger, healthier skin barrier over time. They also work well alongside calming ingredients, which makes them a fantastic option for those managing redness, rosacea, or even eczema. And because they exfoliate without increasing sun sensitivity as much as AHAs, PHAs can be more forgiving for year-round use, though sunscreen is still a must!

What’s the difference between AHA, BHA, and PHA?

AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid, exfoliate the skin’s surface and are great for dullness and uneven tone, but can be irritating. BHAs, such as salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into pores, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. PHAs are larger in molecular size, so they stay on the surface and work more gently. This makes them perfect for sensitive skin or those new to acids. PHAs also have added moisturizing and antioxidant benefits, which AHAs and BHAs don’t typically offer. Overall, PHAs are more forgiving. They hydrate as they exfoliate and pair well with calming or hydrating ingredients, making them an easy choice for layered routines. 

Are there any side effects?

The beauty of PHAs is that they’re designed to minimize irritation. While other acids might cause redness or tingling, PHAs are usually well-tolerated, even by those with rosacea or eczema. That said, every skin type is unique, so I always recommend introducing them slowly and watching for any signs of sensitivity. Even though PHAs are gentle, more isn’t always better. Using them too frequently, especially alongside other exfoliants, can lead to a compromised skin barrier. If your skin starts to feel tight or begins to peel, take a break and focus on hydration and barrier repair.

One lesser-known point: even gentle acids like PHAs can interact with other actives. Using them right before or after retinoids or vitamin C may increase your chances of irritation. If you’re combining powerful ingredients, it’s best to alternate nights or seek advice from your dermatologist.

Is it right for my skin? 

PHAs are one of the most skin-friendly exfoliants out there, especially for those with sensitive or compromised skin. Their gentle nature makes them a great choice for people dealing with conditions like rosacea, eczema, or post-procedure recovery. Still, I always advise patch testing first and avoiding use on areas with broken or inflamed skin. If you’re acne-prone, PHAs may not clear clogged pores as effectively as BHAs. But, they can still help improve skin texture and tone without the risk of irritation. The key is to start slow and monitor how your skin feels over time.

How do I use this in my routine?

One of the best things about PHAs is how simple they are to incorporate into your routine. I often recommend starting with a leave-on product, like a serum or hydrating toner, used two to three times a week. Because PHAs are so gentle, many people can gradually increase usage based on how their skin responds. They also layer beautifully with most skincare ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and even some retinoids. If you’re using a physical exfoliant or other active ingredients, though, try to space them out to avoid over-exfoliating.

If you struggle with body acne, rough texture, or clogged pores, salicylic acid might be the body wash ingredient your routine is missing. Learn more about this powerhouse ingredient from Dr. Alexandra Bowles in Allure’s article.

Is salicylic acid a good ingredient in body washes? 

Salicylic acid is a great ingredient to have in a body wash, especially for anyone dealing with body acne or rough, bumpy skin. It works as a chemical exfoliant that clears out pores and helps smooth the surface of the skin. I like that it’s easy to incorporate into a regular shower routine and doesn’t require an extra step like a separate scrub or treatment. The rinse-off format also makes it gentler, which can be helpful for sensitive or reactive skin types.

How does salicylic acid work on the skin, particularly on the body vs. the face?

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, so it exfoliates by breaking down the oil and dead skin that can clog pores. On the body, it’s often used in slightly higher concentrations because the skin there is thicker and can tolerate a bit more. I find it especially useful for treating areas like the back, shoulders, and chest. On the face, I usually recommend a gentler approach, lower concentrations or less frequent use, because the skin is more delicate.

What types of skin concerns does salicylic acid in a body wash help with most?

It’s best known for treating body acne, but it’s also great for keratosis pilaris and rough or bumpy skin texture. I’ve seen it help reduce clogged pores and smooth dry patches, especially on the upper arms and thighs. It can also support clearer skin by helping prevent future breakouts.

Is it okay to use a salicylic acid body wash every day? 

For many people, daily use is totally fine. If the formula includes moisturizing ingredients and isn’t too strong, it can be part of a consistent routine. I often suggest starting a few times a week, especially for sensitive skin, and increasing frequency based on how your skin responds. If there’s any dryness, redness, or peeling, it’s a good idea to scale back and add a hydrating body lotion to help restore balance.

How can someone tell if their salicylic acid body wash is working? 

Most people start to see results within one to two weeks. You might notice smoother skin, fewer breakouts, or less redness. For concerns like keratosis pilaris, it can take longer, sometimes up to a month or more. I usually tell my patients to give it at least four weeks of consistent use before deciding if it’s effective. Improvements in texture and fewer new bumps or clogged pores are good signs it’s working.

Product Recommendations:

Top Pick – Cerave Acne Control Cleanser: This product can be used on the face or body. It has 2% salicylic acid, niacinamides, and hyaluronic acid to both exfoliate and hydrate the skin. I recommend this product for both facial and body acne. Extra points for being affordable and effective!

Other Recommended Products:

• Cerave Rough and Bumpy SA Body Wash: This product is both effective and affordable. It incorporates salicylic acid to gently exfoliate the skin, niacinamide to brighten and ceramides and hyaluronic acid to keep the skin barrier hydrated. I love that it gets the job done without being too overexfoliating and doesn’t have harsh physical exfoliants. I find this product to be great for keratosis pilaris. 
• Cetaphil Gentle Exfoliating SA Cleanser: This product uses salicylic acid, mandelic acid, and gluconolactone to chemically exfoliate the skin. Its gentle formula makes it great for even those patients with sensitive skin. 
• Necessaire | The Body Wash: This higher end product contains mild plant-derived surfactants that work to gently cleanse the skin. It incorporates salicylic acid to exfoliate and also has luxe oils of marula, cacay and meadowfoam plus Vitamins A, B3, C and E, omega 6 and 9 to help nourish and brighten the skin. The texture is elegant and non drying and is a fan favorite! 

Urea is a powerful yet gentle ingredient that plays a crucial role in skin hydration and renewal. Dr. Alexandra Bowles breaks down this ingredient and explains how to use it in Women’s Health’s article.

What is urea?

It’s a naturally occurring compound found in the skin and is a key component of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). It’s a powerful humectant, which means it attracts moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and soft. I find it especially effective in skin care because it’s not only moisturizing but also helps to maintain the skin’s overall health.

How does urea work in skincare? 

I think of it as working in two main ways in skin care: as a moisturizer and a mild exfoliator. As a moisturizer, urea draws water into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and smooth. It also supports the skin’s barrier function, which is essential for maintaining overall skin health. Urea gently breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to slough them off and reveal smoother skin. I’ve seen it work really well for dry or rough skin, as it both hydrates and gently resurfaces. Additionally, it has soothing properties that can help with skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

Does concentration of urea matter? What should you look for?

Yes, the concentration does matter. Higher concentrations (around 10-20%) are typically used for more intense moisturizing and exfoliation. This is often found in treatments for very dry, rough skin or conditions like calluses or keratosis pilaris. Skincare products often include lower concentrations of urea (around 2–5%) to provide gentle hydration and support the skin barrier in everyday use. If you’re new to urea or have sensitive skin, I suggest starting with a lower concentration and gradually working your way up if needed. Always check the product’s instructions for how often and how much to use, especially if you’re trying a higher concentration.

Can urea be used with other skin care ingredients? 

Urea is generally compatible with a wide range of other skin care ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and peptides.  However, I would recommend being cautious when combining with stronger exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or retinoids, as this could lead to irritation, especially for sensitive skin. If you’re using a product with a higher concentration of urea, it’s a good idea to start slowly and see how your skin responds, particularly if you’re already using other active ingredients.

Is urea safe for all skin types? 

Urea is safe for most skin types, but I find it’s particularly beneficial for people with dry, rough, or flaky skin. People often use it to treat skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and keratosis pilaris because it hydrates and gently exfoliates the skin. For those with oily or acne-prone skin, urea can still be helpful. I suggest choosing a product with a lower concentration to avoid potential clogging of pores. Those with very sensitive or compromised skin should use urea with caution. I recommend starting with a lower concentration or consulting with a dermatologist before incorporating it into their routine.

Hypochlorous acid mists are gaining traction for their powerful, yet gentle benefits. Dr. Alexandra Bowles shares her opinion on these mists and their ingredients in The New York Times Wirecutter’s article.

Who could benefit from adding hypochlorous acid mists to their skin care routine? 

In my experience, these can be especially helpful for those dealing with acne, rosacea, and eczema. It helps cleanse the skin while being very gentle, so it doesn’t exacerbate those conditions. For acne sufferers, it’s a great option because it targets acne-causing bacteria without drying out or irritating the skin. This can also be beneficial in other inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema. Because of its anti-inflammatory benefits, I find that hypochlorous acid is a great multi-functional ingredient for anyone with sensitive or reactive skin.

Why does hypochlorous acid often smell like “pool water” as some reviewers report online?

The “pool water” smell comes from the chlorine-like properties of hypochlorous acid. Since hypochlorous acid is a mild form of chlorine, it gives off a scent similar to what you might notice around a pool. This isn’t something to be concerned about, it’s simply a natural characteristic of the ingredient. I’ve noticed, in my own experience and from patient feedback, that the smell usually dissipates quickly once the product is applied to the skin. So while it might be noticeable at first, it’s not something that lasts long, and the benefits far outweigh the initial scent.

Can you explain the role of the ingredients featured in these mists? 

Sodium chloride is often included in hypochlorous acid products because it helps to stabilize the formula. It’s also used to balance the pH, which is important for ensuring that the hypochlorous acid remains effective and gentle on the skin. I’ve found that sodium chloride also helps with the overall texture of the spray, making it easy to apply without being too thick or sticky. The hypochlorite ion is what provides the antimicrobial benefits. It’s the active component that helps kill harmful bacteria, which is particularly helpful for acne or for preventing infections in small cuts or wounds. These ingredients are typically included in hypochlorous acid formulas because they support both the stability of the product and its effectiveness in promoting healthier skin.

What are the benefits of muriatic acid?

Some hypochlorous acid sprays use muriatic acid, also known as hydrochloric acid, in very small concentrations. The primary role of muriatic acid in these formulations is to help lower the pH of the product. By doing so, it helps optimize the hypochlorous acid’s effectiveness in killing bacteria and promoting healing. When used in diluted amounts, it’s generally safe for the skin and can help the overall formula penetrate better. Skincare products that balance pH levels commonly include it as an ingredient. This is crucial for maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier.

Why is it important to not use mists like this on wounds like burns and scrapes?

I would be cautious when using mists with ingredients like peptides, copper PCA, or plant extracts on open wounds. These extra ingredients are wonderful for healthy, intact skin because they help with hydration, collagen production, and overall skin health. But  when applied to broken skin, they can irritate the skin or interfere with the healing process. The skin is more vulnerable when it’s damaged, and the active ingredients in these products may be too strong for it, potentially delaying healing. For wounds, it’s always best to opt for a simple and gentle product like hypochlorous acid without added actives, unless directed otherwise by a healthcare professional.

What other ingredients should people avoid when looking for a multi-use hypochlorous acid spray that is safe to use on cuts and scrapes as well as sensitive skin? 

When you’re looking for a multi-use hypochlorous acid spray that’s safe for cuts, scrapes, and sensitive skin, avoid certain ingredients. Alcohol, fragrances, essential oils, or any harsh preservatives can cause irritation, especially when applied to broken skin. Alcohol, in particular, can be drying and may cause stinging when applied to cuts or scrapes. Fragrances and essential oils can sometimes cause allergic reactions or sensitivity, particularly on sensitive or compromised skin. I’d stick with a simple, clean formulation to keep it effective without the added irritation.

Can you overuse hypochlorous acid? 

I understand the concern about overusing hypochlorous acid, but it’s not likely to harm the skin’s microbiome when used properly. Overusing any skincare product can irritate the skin. Hypochlorous acid is much more gentle than other antibacterial agents like alcohol. It works to kill harmful bacteria while leaving skin healthy and intact. That said, if you were to overuse it, you might see some dryness or irritation. Like always, moderation is key. If you’re using hypochlorous acid, it’s good to follow up with a nourishing moisturizer to keep the skin’s balance intact.